TENACITY OF TEXTILE FIBERS AND STRENGTH OF PRODUCTS

TENACITY OF TEXTILE FIBERS AND STRENGTH OF PRODUCTS

          Tenacity, the term used for strength of the textile fibers in the form of hair is directly influenced by its morphology. If highly oriented polymer chain regions in fiber structure are high, then tenacity of that fiber will be high.

          Yarn strength in terms of Tensile strength also influenced by fiber Tenacity but with additional factors like twist per inch, level of yarn ply, cohesiveness, etc,. in yarn.

          Fabric strength influenced by fiber Tenacity but with additional factors like fabric cover,nwet process condition, fabric finishes, coatings, etc,.

          Garment strength also influenced by fiber Tenacity but with additional factors like fabric strength as said above, stitch per inch, size of the fabric cut, garment finish or treatments, etc,..

          On the other hand, if tenacity of fiber is badly affected by treatments involved with chemicals involvement, subjected to temperature variations, etc, may reduce the strength of the product.

           The Pass Test report depends on end customer requirements and acceptance.

Examples of Tenacity of few popular fibers are given below:

(Tenacity Expressed in Grams per Denier)

Raw Cotton: 3.0 to 5.0

Silk: 2.4 to 5.1

Wool: 1.0 to 1.7

Acrylic: 2.0 to 3.6

Polyester (Regular): 2.5 to 6.3

Polyester (High Tenacity): 6.0 to 9.5

Nylon 6 (Regular): 3.5 to 9.0

Nylon 6 (High Tenacity): 7.7 to 9.5

Nylon 6,6 (Regular): 4.3 to 9.0

Nylon 6,6 (High Tenacity): 5.7 to 9.5

Etc,..

Tenacity of the individual fibers can also be expressed in terms of Grams per Tex.

Source: Education Qualification & Industrial Experience of the Author.

Reference: "Textile Science "by E.P.G.Goel L.D.Vilensky.

A BRIEF NOTE ON RSL MANAGEMENT IN TEXTILE & APPERAL INDUDTRIES

   A BRIEF NOTE ON RSL MANAGEMENT IN TEXTILE & APPERAL INDUDTRIES  

    

          In today's global textiles and apperals manufacturing industries as well as in the consumer end,the awareness of few chemicals which are essential to use in their product to finish it as per end use requirements. 

          The chemical used by mainly wet processing industries are facing challenges to meet their market requirements in terms of chemical testing as per laws and regulations laid by the governing bodies of importing countries.But there is no excuse or relax to meet it by regulatory compliance.

          What are those regulations,what they say ?.They said not to use chemicals listed and banned globally,which are harmful to the human health as well as surrounding environment.Go for green chemistry in textiles, apperals and footwear production.And avoid hazardous chemicals in the stages of manufacturing and finishing.Hazardous chemicals even cause for cancer in turn to death.

          AAFA (American Apperal & Footwear Associations),an environmental oriented group and AFIRM (Apparel and Footwear International RSL Management) group, are both engaged fully in helping textile, apperal and footwear Industries to produce RSL (Restricted Substances List ) free products & supply to reach end consumer with the safe products.

          The major countries like USA,EU,JAPAN, CHINA, involved in Export/Import of Textile,Apparel and Footwear have laid their own laws and regulations in particular about permitting acceptable amount of banned chemicals in their imported goods.Some chemicals are totally prohibited by them.

          Why I am writing this note is,it's one of the global heart burning topic of complying to the regulations and keep the earth and it's lifes safe.

          The endangered issues like Global warming,Increased population,Environmental pollution,Deforestation,Unbalancing of Seasons of nature, Factory releases,Decrease in the population of wild or forest animals,Dyeing of Aquarian animals, Scarcity of safe drinking water are threatening the upcoming generations.

          More than this,the other threatening issue is chemical content of the products produced by man.Ex:The consumer man or woman or children who purchases the goods finished with banned chemicals may be a victim of skin infections or cancer or other deceases.Its case to case,not always.

          Below are few globally banned chemical examples listing below,which are permanently prohibited or permitted little amount in their imported manufactured goods.These permissions are varies country to country.

Lead

Mercury

Nickel

Antimony,

Arsenic

Formaldehyde

PFOS(Perfluorooctane sulfonate)

PFOA(Perfluorooctane acid)

Hydrofluorocarbons (HFCs)

Perfluorocarbons (PFCs)

pH Value

Etc,..

          The chemical content permission (for its imported goods )of specific goods receipt country are available in the list provided by AAFA.We can not highlight those data in this note.

          Examples of permission level of chemical content are in micro livel as below:

Lead : 0.1 ppm

Mercury : 0.02 ppm

Nickel : 1.0 ppm

Formaldehyde : Not detected for 0 to 36 months child

Formaldehyde : 75 ppm for 36 and above has goods direct skin touch

Formaldehyde : up to 300ppm for goods has not touch the skin.

PFOS : 1 angstrom unit per meter square

Etc,.....

WHO ARE ALL RESPONSIBLE FOR RSL COMPLIANCE IN TEXTILE & APPAREL INDUSTRIES ?

          Participation of one or two sections of the clothing industries will not help in supplying RSL free product to end consumer.This is an involvement of supply chain from fiber production stage to garment seller stage.

          Firstly,chemical supplier at bottom stage who supplies his chemical to yarn mill,weaving mill,dyeing mill,finishing mill and garment treatment units has great responsibility for RSL free end product.And has to produce third party PASS chemical test report to his immediate customer.

          Secondly,The yarn or fabric wet processor has to purchase chemicals with PASS test report.And after finishing his wet processing,the dyed, finished goods are to be tested at third party to supply his yarn or fabric with PASS test report to garment manufacturer.

          Thirdly,the received fabric to be cut for stitching only after receipt of PASS test report from fabric supplier.Once garment is finished to pack it,garment factory has to produce third party PASS chemical test report to garment buyers.If PASS,garments shipment will move for consumer use.

          This is how,the most global apparel brands are expected to process their merchandise with RSL free.

          The material development team is responsible for RSL free product supply in each section of clothing industry.

Source:Based on industrial experience of the Author/Blogger.

         

MOISTURE MANAGEMENT IN TEXTILE FABRICS

   MOISTURE MANAGEMENT IN TEXTILE FABRICS

Fabrics made of natural fibers, Regenerated fibers and manmade synthetic fibers as well as blend of these fibers. Fabrics made of natural fibers like cotton and linen are breathe sufficiently to keep wearer comfort. Fabrics made of regenerated fibers like Viscose, also breathe. Fabrics made of synthetic fibers like polyester and nylon can be made breathe artificially. This artificial requires to incorporate moisture management ability to the fabrics by using artificial fabric production technique.

     The sport person or athletes or heavy workmen perspire due to heat generation inside by body movements. This perspiration or sweat containing water vapor molecules of size 3.5 angstrom unit or 2 to 3 micro meter in diameter.To keep person comfort, feel cool and dry, the fabric has to perform below functions efficiently.

1. The perspiration in the form of moist or water vapor particles needs to transport to the outside surface of the fabric through the fabric of the garment. This transport takes place by capillary process ( more finer the yarn more speed of vapor transport ) ie,… wicking OR by pressure/humidity/temperature difference  between inside and outside environment ie.,, moist vapor molecules pushes through interstices (Empty space) between yarn to outside surface. OR by using Hydrophobic or Hydrophilic technique application.

2. Once moist or water vapor molecules comes out and placed on the face of the fabric, then it needs to evaporate. This is achieved by increasing the surface tension by increasing the area of fabric from fine yarn & tight weaving. So that, the vapor gets easily and quickly evaporated.

3. At the same time, the outside air needs to pass into the fabric to keep the person’s body dry. So the fabric should be air permeable.

    From the above 1st and 2nd function person feel COOL. And by 3rd function the person feel DRY. The final performance of fabric will be COMFORT to wear as functional fabric.

    These functionality will be achieved by applying coating to the shell fabric OR by laminating thin micro porous film to the shell fabric OR by incorporating high tech membranes in the shell fabric. The most & popular common chemicals used are PU (Poly Urethane) and ePTFE (Extended Poly Tetra Fluoro Ethylene).

Continued in next post....

Source:Based on educational qualification and experience of the Author/Blogger.

    

GLOBAL COMMERCIAL COTTON FIBERS-A brief note.

GLOBAL COMMERCIAL COTTON FIBERS-A brief note.

Asian cotton,Egyptian cotton,Gija cotton,Pima cotton,Organic cotton ,Bt cotton and BCI

INTRODUCTION: 

To understand the type of cotton,we have to go to about individual biological species of cotton plant.There are important four cotton species.Those are Gossippium Arborium,Gossippium Herbessium,Gossipium Barbadence and Gossipium Hirsutum.All species belongs to the family Malvaceae.

          Only two species,Those are Gossippium Herbessium and Arborium.These two species are growing almost 90% of cotton production in the world.

ASIAN COTTON:

          India and China are the major Asian countries growing these types of species more.Because,these are suitable for these particular climate of Asian counties.

          Asian cotton compared to quality, not as good as Egyptian cotton or Pima cotton or Gija cotton.We have these different types,based on length of the fiber  ,that I'd staple length.We have divided staple length into three.A long staple,that will range around 24mm to 27mm.And medium staple length of 20mm to 24mm.And short staple length below or less than 20mm.These are the three different types of staple length in Asian cotton production.

EGYPTIAN COTTON:

          Egyptian cotton is produced by Gossippium Barbadance.This is a very good quality.The staple length is medium to long,extra long.Quality of the fiber is very good.And fineness and shining are very excellent.Banks of Nile river is the suitable place to produce Egyptian cotton.

GIJA COTTON:

          Gija cotton, It is also known as Egyptian cotton,it is produced nearer to the same region,that is banks of the Nile river.The region provides suitable fertility and climate or specific humidity to growth of Gina cotton plants.Agricultural activities of these cotton plants done in particular time from stages of sowing seeds to the stages of harvesting the crops. Because of that,the cotton length, fineness, luster,etc,.are comparatively slightly higher than Egyptian regular cotton.Among the all cotton,Gija cotton is one of the excellent cotton as of now.

PIMA COTTON:

          Pima cotton, is usually grown in USA. This type of cotton is produced by biological species Gossipium Hirsutum.Pima cotton is also an excellent cotton.We can't able to differentiate the Egyptian cotton and the Pima cotton.Pima cotton is only used for production of subsidiaries.

          Compared to Egyptian cotton, Egyptian cotton is costlier than Pima cotton.Quality wise Egyptian cotton is slightly better.The difference between Pima cotton and Egyptian cotton is only due to difference in the speceis and their adoptability in the particular climatic region.

          The fineness quality of the fiber is very good.It gives comfortness to the body of wearer.And has good moisture absorption,comfortness and also good durability.

ORGANIC COTTON:

           The organic cotton is the non BT cotton method of production.In the organic method of cultivation,fertilisers are not used, chemicals are not used to spray.Only use like neem cake and green leaf manuar for cultivation.Also cowdung, formyard manuar,vermicompost are used to fertile the land.Plant extract chemicals like neem extract will be used to control pest.In such a care,cotton plants are produced organically.This special attention and care will help in supplying good natural  nutirents to cotton plants.The fibers of the organically grown  cotton plants are results with excellent quality.

          Strength(Tenacity)wise, quality wise,definitely organic cotton is good.And production wise approximately 25% of yield is less, compared to non organic cotton productoon.

          The products produced from cotton fibers grown organically are as below.

Spun yarns,

Dyed yarns,

Woven fabrics,

Dyed fabrics,

Finished fabrics,

Stitched garments,

Treated garments,

Industrial applications,

Medical & Surgical applications,

Etc,.

          The individual products made by organic cotton like in the above list,are labelled or enclosed with hangtag saying "This product made of organic cotton".These hang tags or lables are put by products manufacturer or brands only after product is verified & certified by International body for standard for organic cotton.That is GOTS.

          Many global brands are producing variety of cotton products.GOTS certified cottons used,labeled or tagged as organic cotton, itself has more demand and that is green oriented and environmental oriented,compared to regular cotton crops.

Bt COTTON :

          Bt cotton is actually a genetically modified cotton crops.The genetically modified organisms has been introduced in a cotton plant.Bt means Bacillus thurin (Bt).It is a bacteria that has been introduced in a cotton plant to control the bollworms.In cotton crops cultivation,many incidences of 'pest incidence' are occurred.

          Because of bollworms,the expectation of good yield is less.To have control on bookworms,Bt cotton comes into existence.This method involved introduction of biotechnology bacteria into the cotton plant.These bacteria kills the bollworms,when they eats the leaves of the plant or whole of the plant.

          Because of Bt bacteria kills the particular bollworm,the cotton plant is automatically protected from harmful plant deceases.This method will help in avoiding use of chemicals spray or adfitional investments.

          Production wise,the yield will be more,but the quality of Bt cotton fiber are poorer compared to other categories.

BCI (Better Cotton Initiative):

          The better cotton Initiative (BCI) is also an green environmental oriented cotton cultivation programme like organic cotton.BCI is an international council has many members country wise, involved in the production of cotton which promotes farmers and cotton sectors by following it's own principles.This international organisation has been supported and encouraged by global apperal brands and textile industries to the base level of  cotton farmers.  BCI cotton became popular, licensed and tagged brand in demand.

STAPLE LENGTH OF COTTON FIBERS:

          Staple length of fibers varies from species to species.Asian cotton has short fibers of 1.5 cm to 2cms that is also good for producing coarser yarns in turn for heavy weight fabrics as well as blending with other fibers like polyester, nylon,viscose,tencel,etc,.

          Long staple length,what Egyptian cotton fiber staple length or Pima cotton fiber staple length are better in producing fine quality yarn in turn production of light weight.How much length is more that much the produced clothing possess good quality.

          The long staple fibers used in the production of clothing like shirts,tops,T-shirts,etc,.for men's wear,women's wear and kids wear as well as for baby Napkin's and medical applications.

          Staple length of cotton may be classified as below.

Very short staple : Less than 3/4th inch(1.9 and),

Short staple : 13/16th to 15/16th inch (2.06 to 2.38 cm ),

Medium staple : 15/16th to 1,1/8th inches (2.38 to 2.86 cm),

Ordinary long staple : 1,1/8th to 1,3/8th inches (2.86 to 3.5 cm) and

Extra long staple : 1,3/8th inches (3.5 cm) or over.

Source: This article written based on the educational qualification and industrial experience of the author/Blogger.

Reference made:

1.USDA site,

2.GOTS site,

3.BCI site,

4.TEXTILE SCIENCE,Second edition, By E.P.G.Gohl and L.D.V.Vilensky

                                  *****

TENACITY OF COTTON FIBER

TENACITY OF COTTON FIBER

          Physical properties of fibers may be listed as below.

Colour,

Tensile strength,

Elongation at break,

Elastic recovery, 

Specific gravity

Etc,.   

          Tensile strength.The strength properties,why strength is considered as a property ?.Because,what we are wearing the garments/clothing,should have strength,should have durability,should have resistance to tear and wear,should have resistance to other stress and strains.So,the garment or the fabric or the yarn to have strength,the base material fiber should have strength.

          The yarn strength,fiber strength,garment strength,or the durability depends upon fiber strength.Fiber strength is not measured in Tensile.But it is measured in terms of Tenacity.Tenacity is a technical term used to measure the strength of the fiber.

          The unit of measurement of tenacity is grams per denier/tex.Not only cotton,any other fibers tenacity is measured in unit of measurement is grams per denier/tex.Here,the cotton tenacity is 3 to 5 grams per denier.Because of this 3 to 5 grams per denier,fiber tenacity,it gives best durability to the yarn,fabric or garment/clothing strength.

          And other important thing here is to consider the strength factor.If the cotton fiber is in a dried condition,it possessg around 3 to 3.5 grams per denier.But,when it is in the wet condition or when its gets wet,the material may be yarn or fabric or garment,the strength will increase by 20%.

          Because of its morphological construction,cellulose present in cotton fiber is good substance in farming the cotton fiber.It is subjected to changes.If the cotton is in wet condition,wet,means if water particle goes into the fiber structure,the free space in the fiber structure is covered with water particle.That allow the fiber to increase the weight.But some fibers like synthetic fibers will not allow water particle into their structure.Cotton is easily allow,easily wet.

          Cotton products are dyed easily,finished easily.Because it's having the cellulose polymers,are very flexible inside in the amorphous region with 11 to 13 % moisture regain value.

          20% wet strength is more compared to dried fiber.The technical word tensile is not used for the fiber.But totally,when we talk about the textiles,the term tensile is used.And when we talk about material in the fiber form,the term tenacity is used.

Source:Based on educational qualification and experience of the Blogger/Author.

Introduction to Wool Fiber

Wool Fiber

     Wool belongs to protein fiber classification. Its an animal fiber extracted from the skin of Sheep and Goat. Compared to cotton fiber, raw wool fiber is of rough and hard in hand feel and has length of 5 to 6 inches and more depend on the variety of sheep and goat  grown and countries where the wool production taken as their economy generation.

     Wool fibers are of scales on its surface and crimp in character. It makes the fiber allow the air as well as give elasticity and flexibility to comfort with heat retention. It has a good moist absorption quality and not easily catches to fire like cotton fiber.

How wool fiber processed for ready to spun the yarn?

    The wool fibers on the sheep or goat are subjected to many mechanical and chemical processes to make them ready to convert into textile product. Below are the brief explanation given.

Shearing: Is a process of cutting the fleece of wool from the skin of sheep or goat. After extracting the wool hairs, are segregated into wool fleece, broken wool, stained, curled,non-usable,.etc..Wool fleece is the good one to take it for further process. This wool is called greasy wool also.

Scouring: Is the process of cleaning the raw wool which is contained with un wanted atmospheric waste materials, lanolin grease, vegetables, etc. It may be cleaned by detergents at small scale quantities and with special detergents with alkalis at industry for huge quantity. In industry most of the non-removable vegetables contents are subjected to process carbonization.

Types of Wool

    Wool types are classified into many based on the breeds and kinds of animals used, the region where the wool forming is done as well as length and fineness of yield . Below are some important kind of wool have place in the market.

Merino Wool: This kind of wool is now popular for its finest and very soft hand mainly produced in Australia. The merino wool fiber and its production dominating in Australia. The end product from merino wool is mainly have demand in the area of sports culture and yoga culture, where it can be blended with elastane and other fibers combination. This woll measures from 3 to 5 inches in length and 12 to 24 microns in diameter

Cashmere Wool: This is from goats in the northern region of South Asia mainly from present province named as ‘’Kashimir’’.Cashmere wool is a soft,fine and long goat hair strenger than wool taken from sheep.The average diameter around 19 microns .The wool from cashmere goat has double fleece mixed with coarse wool called as guard wool supports the fine wool.The fine cashmere wool is separated from coarse wool by the process called ‘’de-hairing’’and used for textile products manufacturing. The fine cashmere wool is in very demand because of its finer range extended to 30 microns and above. This has been produced in large now in Kashmir (India),Nepal, China and Mongolia.

Mohair: This is from goats of Angora of Turkey region. This is very lustrous, sheen and fine has good warm produce character in cold as well as cool conditioning character in summer. Mohair has 25-45 microns .This may be coarser as the goat old as grown. The fine yarn extracted from younger goat for the application in garments and coarser fibers from aged goats are used for carpet and other house hold application

 Angora Wool: This is from angora rabbits. It is a soft and warmth fiber mainly used in sweaters, suiting and knitted goods of good quality. It is differ from other mohair and cashmere wool. The main country harvest angora is China. The diameter of Angora is between 12 to 16 micro meters. Angora fiber extracted from skin of rabbit, the process by moulting or plucking.

Source:Based educational qualification and experience of the Author/Blogger.

WOOL FIBER - INTRODUCTION,PRODUCTION AND TYPES

WOOL FIBER -  INTRODUCTION,PRODUCTION AND TYPES

INTRODUCTION TO WOOL FIBER:

         Wool fiber is extracted from the hairs of the sheep or goat.This wool fiber is a natural fiber and classified under animal category.This fiber is made of protein.This is called protein fiber.The content of protein fiber is keratin.How the cellulose is there in the cotton fiber like that,Keratin substance present in the wool fiber.

WOOL PRODUCTION COUNTRIES:

          This animal fiber is produced in the major countries like Australia, China,United States and New Zealand.And how the cotton is produced in cotton growing countries as a major contributor to the cotton,like that,these four countries are contributing more in the production of wool fibers.Among the four Australia is number one,China is second, United States is third and New Zealand is fourth in the production of wool.And rest Iran,Sudan,India,Turkey,etc,.are other countries contributes less.

PRODUCTION OF WOOL:

          The global wool fiber production may approximately 2 million tonnes per year.It may go high or it may come down time to time.Average may be 2 million tonnes per year.This is the global wool fiber productions. But when compared to the global textile market,wool production has only 3%.Rest of the global textile production may includes products made of natural fiber,manmade regenerated fibers,manmade synthetic fibers.But only wool took a part of 3% and  this accounts approximately 2 million tonnes per year of global Production.Among total wool production,60% of wool production goes to the production of the apperals.Rest may include other wool applications.This is the brief explanation of the global production.

TYPES OF WOOL:

           The wool types are classified based on the regions of the Globes.The production of the wool,how the cotton grows by the cotton farmers,like that,this wool is produced by rearing of sheep or goat. Those who are farming the sheep,those who are farming the goats for production of wool,they not only rear them for production of wool but some farmers rear for meat productions also.The different wool producers,who is rearing the sheep or goat are of different regions of the globe results for different types of wool.Say, popular wool types are Cashmere wool.Why this Cashmere wool, the term Cashmere has came ?.The name Cashmere comes from the northern part of the India. That is Kashmir near to the Mongolian region .The fibers extracted from the goats grew in Kashmir area.Those fibers are referred as Cashmere wool.

          Mohair is the wool fiber or hair fiber from the Angora goat belongs to the place Angora.Angora wool is also referred for hair fiber from the Angora rabbit.Merino is also a wool fiber.It is produced Australia and Newzealand.These are the different areas of the globe.The main area for highest contribution to the Merino fiber is from Australia.Next is Newzealand.

          Cashmere,Mohair,Angora and Merino are the major types of wool belongs to different parts of the globe.

Note:This article is going to be update time to time and as and when required.

Source:Based on educational qualification and industrial experience of the Author/Blogger.

Cotton Fibers-Growth Production

       Cotton Fibers-Growth  Production

          Cotton is the king and Silk is the queen of textile world .Both are dominating the clothing area of the human essentials though the man-made technology developed to the extent of fulfilling the need of clothing. Cotton maintained its value in the history and continued to gain importance in present and future. History says, cotton was known by the people who lived 5000 years back. People were knew the technology of growing the cotton plant, spinning the yarn and get it woven. As we came to know, cotton dominating countries were India & surrounding countries, Egypt, Australia and American continent. Among these India was the main country producing cotton fiber. Cotton is one of the prime farming of Indian agriculture.

Cotton belongs to biological genus gossypium of Malvaceae family. The fiber is completely composed of cellulose.

Production of Cotton Fiber:

Cotton is cultivated in the Soil which is heavy and in an environment of frost free period and in moderate rain fall. Now a days even cotton plants are cultivating in lands of less rain fall but with getting land irrigated. The plants usually grow to to height of 1 to 2 meters depends on area and environment. It has 3 to 7 lobes with large size leaves give pods or boll containing seeds. These cotton seeds are surrounded by fibers grown from the surface of the seed. The boll of cotton seed is supported by flower makes plant & farm looks very beautiful and indicates the farmer to initiate harvesting.

Harvesting is done both mechanically as well as by hand. Boll picking machines and stripers are used in many developed countries. These machines will picks and separate the pods without damaging the plants .But in some developing countries still the cropping is done by farmer hand. Harvesting taken place only after the flower dried & pods gets open itself to sun shine. For cropping, the pods are in a state of complete dried & fibers gets free to exposed sunlight. The picked pods are taken for ginning process. Cotton covers 2.5 % of the worlds cultivated land.

Ginning & Packing of Cotton Fibers:

Ginning is the mechanical process of separating the fibers from the skin of the seeds. This process requires the fibers on attached to the seed must be free from moist. The machines are developed for greater efficiency and productivity have the mechanism of feeding cotton seeds passing though cylinders mounted with sharp saw and pinned belts. The machines separate the seed and fibers as well as through out the trash include dust particles, husk, leaves etc, whatever comes from the farm along with cotton pods.

                The fibers comes out from the gin machine are packed in compact form called ‘’Bale’’ with specific weight to send it to spinning mills for yarn manufacturing.

Organic Cotton Fibers:

                Organic cotton fibers are not differ from regular cotton fibers. Cotton plants are grown naturally without the use of synthetic fertilizers or pesticides. From sewn of seeds to harvesting of cotton pods involved use of biological cycles only.

Agricultural chemicals used for better yield with better quality. The intention behind to avoid use of fertilizers or any kind of chemicals in cotton cultivation is to protect the environment and soil. To have organic cotton and avoid use of pesticides, system had been developed in global level that regulate and control the process of cotton farming, which will include giving approval and supporting to the farmers to grow organic cotton. Each and every stage the process is monitored and certified by the governing body of organic cotton.

                Sustainable cotton project of the global leaders is helping formers to change their production of conventional cotton to organic cotton by avoiding chemicals and support biological growth. Organic cotton growth found successful in many countries like Turley, India, China, Pakistan, Brazil,  Australia , US and African Countries  mainly Egypt. And global apparel brands like Nike, Wallmart,C&A,H&M,etc have switched to organic cotton.

GOTS is the certificating body of global organic cotton and below is their vision and mission for textile industry.

_________________________

[The Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) was developed through collaboration by leading standard setters with the aim of defining requirements that are recognised world-wide and that ensure the organic status of textiles from harvesting of the raw materials through environmentally and socially responsible manufacturing all the way to labelling in order to provide credible assurance to the consumer.

Since its introduction in 2006 the Global Organic Textile Standard has already demonstrated its practical feasibility. Supported by the growth in consumption of organic fibres and by the remarkable demand for unified processing criteria from the industry and retail sector, it has gained universal recognition, enabling processors and manufacturers to supply their organic textiles with one certification accepted in all major markets. With the introduction of the logo and labelling system the GOTS is already visible not only on the shelves of natural textile shops but large-scale retailers and brand dealers as well. This is a milestone in consumer recognition and a strong acknowledgement of our reliable quality assurance concept.(Courtesy : GOTS)]

_________________________________________

Extra Long Staple (ELS)Cottons:

Fiber staple length has been classified into three groups.

1.       Short Staple-Up to 1,1/8inch long

2.       Long Staple-Between 1,1/8 inch to 1,1/4 inch long

3.       Extra Long Staple-Between 1,3/8inch and 2 inch long

Extra-long staple cotton fibers are belongs to biological specie Gossypium barbadense and staple length of 1,3/8 inch to 2 inches even to 2.5 inches .American pima cotton and Egyptian giza are the main Extra-long staple fibers we find easily in mills use. But other Extra-long fibers also developed in many other countries, but the output per hectare is less than pima and Giza. The countries which are successfully producing extra-long fibers are America, Egypt, Australia, Peru,Israil, Central Asian republics of Tadzhikistan, Turkmenistan and Uzbekistan ,China, West Indies and India.

These Extra Long Staple fibers are of very much demand in the production of fine quality fabrics with better hand feel, soft and strength. The application of these long fibers are of importance in meeting new fashion trends ,fittings as well as comfortness when used with other fiber combination.

The Extra Long Staple fibers cultivated in India are SUVIN in parts of Tamilanadu. And Hybrid DCH32 & Hybrid TCHB 213 are among the  10 commercially cultivated fibers finding in Karnataka, Tamilanadu and Madhya Pradesh. SUVIN is the only fiber belongs to the species Gossypium barbadense.

 

Pima Cotton: Pima cotton staple length are better than other fibers grown in US , Australia, Egypt and in other few countries. Originally this ELS fibre grew by Indianpima in south eastern US. Later it grows in other countires.

Giza: Giza Cottons are the long staple fine micro used for super fine light weight fabrics especially top weights. This variety is grown in Egypt closer to Nile river. The climatic condition of this land has good soil, good humidity and average temperature required for continuous growth of lengthy staple fiber.

Source:Based on qualification and knowledge of the blogger.

COLOUR OF THE COTTON FIBERS

COLOUR OF THE COTTON FIBERS

         Physical properties of fibers may be listed as below.

Colour,

Tensile strength,

Elongation at break,

Elastic recovery, 

Specific gravity

Etc,.

          The colour of cotton fibers are vary from reason to reason or environment, depends on surrounding environment or continental or climatic condition of the country or reason.The major colours available are white,bluish white, yellowish white and grey.These are the colours or shades of the cotton occurs in raw cotton and these colour whatever ,the grey colour or yellowish colour or cream colour will be changed when the yarn or fabric is subjected to the process of breaching.The fiber turn into pure white colour after bleaching,that is,in next processing but raw cotton availability in the above said colours or shades.

Source:Based on educational qualification and experience of the Blogger/Author.

Cotton fiber | Cellulosic fiber | Vegetable fiber | plant fiber | natural fiber

 Cotton fiber | Cellulosic fiber | Vegetable fiber | plant fiber | natural fiber

Biological spiecies: Cotton fiber. This is the natural fiber extracted from cotton plant belongs to the biological family Gossipium under the category Mallow. 

Cotton growing countries : The cotton is grown in the tropical and sub-tropical of the globe and continents America, Africa, India, Australia. These are the major continents, major area of the globe, contributing to the growth of the cotton. American cotton,that is Pima cotton. African cotton, that is from country Egypt, Egyptian cotton. Indian cotton and Australian cotton. Even these are the major countries or continents growing cotton, but countries that is middle east countries, Europe countries, Pakistan, Bangladesh,even China, are all  growing cotton. But totally compared to globe, India is the major country contributing cotton production.

Chemistry of cotton fiber : The major content of cotton substance contained in the cotton fiber is cellulose, is the natural chemical element found in cotton fiber contributing about 90 to 92 % of its content in the cotton fiber. But this cellulose not only found in cotton plant, cellulose is also available in forest trees and other plants in woods. But in other wood and forest trees, the cellulose available is only 40 to 45%.But in case of cotton fibers, it is more than 90%.Because of this substance cellulose, the cotton is having demand. It gives the quality; it gives comfortness and other required properties of the clothing. The natural God gifted fiber cotton plant.

Cotton cultivation environment : The environment required to grow the cotton plant are, its required plenty of sunshine and moderate rain  fall of  about 60 to 120 cms. And soil need to be very heavy. And the cotton plant grows in frost free period.

Cotton plant : The cotton plant is having number of flowers. Each flower is producing a pod. The petals of the flower are covering this pod. When flower gets dried, the ball of the cotton fibers, that is compact form of the cotton fiber, that is wet conditioned fibers are packed together in the of the ball. The ball is called as pod. And in this pod, the number of fibers produced in the origin, that is the origin of the fibers are the seeds. The Seeds are covered with the fibers. The pod containing both seeds and the fibers. Both are attached together. Seed producing the fibers.

Cotton pod contain fibers with seeds

          When harvesting time comes, these all pods, that is when these pods almost all in their dried form (90% of the pods are dried), the harvest taking place in the sunshine period. These pods are plucked by the farmers. And collected and kept for drying. Plucked cotton fibers along with seeds are called the raw fibers or raw cotton. This raw cotton fibers are not only a mixture of seed and fiber but also containing the foreign impurities like husk, dried leaves, dust & dirt and other unwanted natural stains, etc,.

Cotton ginning : The raw cotton taken to the Ginning process. Here we have not written that process.In this Ginning process, the raw cotton fibers are separated from the seeds. That is the process of separating fibers from the seed and cleaning it or free from the dust & dirt and foreign impurities. And make the fiber pure one is called the Ginning process. This Ginning process is processed in the roller Gins. In olden days, it was done by hand rolled gin. Slowly the technology has been updated and improved. Nowadays automated ginning machines are used. The efficiency of the Ginning machines per day or per hour are improved a lot as technology has been improved.

Cotton bales

Cotton bale : When the Ginning process is completed, the outcome of the ginned fiber is having the pure cotton is packed and sold in the bale form. The bale is an international package form for the cotton. And this bale is measuring approximately about 1.400 x 0.53 x 0.69 m.And weight is around average 480 to 496 pounds in British system or 218 to 225 Kgs in MKS system. 

          Thus, in Ginning mill the raw cotton is purified into white cotton, not pure white cotton, but its free from other un wanted materials / impurities. And these bales are send to or sold to the spinning mills to process further  into the yarn, that is fibers are spun into yarn and then yarns are woven into fabrics.

Global cotton production: Now the total world production including all countries, all continent, all areas approximately about 25 million tons of cotton produced annually. But now a day, because of the variation in the climatic conditions, variations in the environmental requirements, that is required for the growth of the cotton plant, that is varying. Even the scarcity of water, limitations to irrigation or agricultural problems, natural calamities and one or the other reasons, now a day’s compared to olden days the cotton cultivation has gone down. The production of the cotton that is efficiency of the cotton grown worldwide has decreased. But the cotton has not lost its demand. This is the king of the cotton textile industry.            

Note: This note will be updated as and when required.                

Source: Based on the qualification and knowledge of the blogger had post graduation in Master of Technology in Textile Technology.

Fire retardant finish | Fire resistant finish | Textile finishes | Functional finishes

FIRE RETARDANT FINISH

Introduction: 

  Fire retardant (FR) finish is one of functional performing textile finish applied to fabric while finishing.The fabrics finished with FR are used by manufacturer of protective clothing or uniform of workers or employee or labour who is working closer to fire.These uniform or protective clothing are also called as work wear.

          

Areas of fire hazards:

          Fire furnace of steel industries or other metal/mineral industries have industrial processes need to generate heavy heat to melt solid metals.The workers employed for this process execution must ensure their safety from risk of fire hazards.

          The workers who engaged in the electricity power house have risk of electric fire hazards.They must ensure their safety against electric sparks.

          The fire fighters of public services have risk of catching fire themselves while involved in extinguishing public or any kind of fires.They must ensure their safety from splitting flames.

Fire Retardant(FR) Finish:

          Workwear finished with FR will protect the wearer from fire by resisting the heat or high intense fire for some specific time (The time required to escape from fire hazard place).In this specific time, the FR finish will not allow textile fabric or uniform to catch fire.The resisting time may vary depending on the finish quality or FR brand.

         On the other hand,the work wear or uniform or protective clothing must also give comfortness,flexibility and ease to wearer or workmen.In this area of textile protective goods or personal protective equipment (PPE) clothing,many textile and apparel brands have involved in the production of work wear with competitive qualities.

Latest Innovation dated 10 May 2021 by Daletec:

         An effort of new development on inherent flame retardant finished fabrics, done recently by Daletec,the company of Norway.We visited their website to learn more on this development. Below are the high lights of the development.For more information,please visit website given at the end.

Fabric trade name: Extreme X

Finish : Inherent flame retardant (IFR) finish.

Performance:Stretch functionality,Long lasting durability, Comfort, flexibility,freedom of movement,etc,.

Test performance:1.Abrasion resistance by lasting at least three times longer

2.Extensive washing

3.50N tear strength

4.Industrial laundering at 75'C and above.etc,.

Heat protection rate:High Arc protection rating of 9 cal/cm2.

Core Benefits:Maximum protection from flames and sparks with best tear and abrasion resistance.

Etc಼

We will come with other innovations in our blogger.

Source:

1.www.daletec.com

2.Educational qualifications and Industrial Experience of Author/Blogge.r

Acid dyes | Textile dyes | An introduction

ACID DYES

Introduction:

         Textile dyes are classified according to the textile material going to be dyed or colored.Say, cotton fiber,the garment or the fabric or the yarn made of cotton are dyed with Direct dyes or Reactive dyes.Polyester materials dyed with Dispersed dyes.Nylon materials are dyed with Acid dyes.Like that,textile materials made of different substances are required different chemical bondable or chemical structure dyes.The textile dyes selection are based on the textile fibers to be dyed.

          In this article,we tried to brief on acid dyes.What are acid dyes ?.Acid dyes are used to dye colour the textile material contain protein or polyamide.Examples of protein natural fibers are wool and silk.Wool contains protein substance called Keratin.Silk contain protein fiber Fibroin .And synthetic fiber nylon contains chemical substance Polyamide.

          Wool dyeing or nylon dyeing takesplace based on the affinity mechanism between acid dye and protein substance of wool fiber or polyamide substance of nylon fiber.Basically,acid dyes are of anionic electro charging in nature.They have the chemical sites of anion.As we studied in your previous academy,specially in high school level or 11th standard or 12th standard in chemistry.Anion and cation are the charged electronic sites.They are charged negative and positive respectively.These anion and cation are attracted to each other like north and south poles of the magnets.How the two opposite poles if two magnets attracts,like that anions and cations are attracted to each other.

          Anions of acid dyes are attracted towards the cationic sites of the protein fiber wool(or silk) or polyamide fiber nylon.The poly molecules of the wool is having cationic sites in its polymer structure.That is morphology, whatever the polymer chain is there,that is containing cationic sites attracted by the anionic sites of the acidic dyes.When the wool fiber is dyed with or the nylon is dyed with the acid dye in acidic concentration,then both the affinity that attraction takesplace between the anion or cations and form an electrovalent bond.

          The base of the acid dyes is the mechanism involved in acid dyes.That is mode of attachment of acid dyes to protein or polyamide fibers.

Types of Acid dyes:

          Acid dyes are divided into two groups.1.Molecularly split acid dyes and 2.Aggregated acid dyes.

Molecularly split acid dyes:

          When these dyes are dissolved in water, individual molecules of the dyestuff are sepersted,followed by ionisation.

Aggregated acid dyes:

          These dyes do not split into individual molecules when dissolved in water.Many molecules cluster together into bigger particles.Some of the molecules ionise,giving electrically charged aggregates.

         Other method of classification of acid dyes are divided as below.And will be briefed in separate articles.

1.Levelling dyes

2.Milling dyes

3.Super Milling dyes

          The dyes used for the particular textile material,it depends upon the class of dyes,which are selected depends upon the efficiency of the fastness rating.What fastness is required ? What efficiency is required ? Main mechanism involved basically,the acid dyes are called salt called sodium salt  produce coloured negative ions anions when dissolved in water.They soluble in water.

Properties:

          Everybody expects good fastness from applied dyes or shades. Rubbing fastness,Light fastness, Washing fastness are the three major fastness considered to judge quality of dyes.

          Shade creations that is possibility of shades produced by dyes.Those are Light shade,Medium shade and Dark shade.

         The properties of acid dyes will be briefed in separate articles.

Source:

1.Ref: Chemistry of Dyes and Principles of Dyeing by V A Shenai.

2.Educational qualification and industrial experience of the author/blogger.

Tencel | Regenerated textile fibers | Cellulosic fibers

Tencel | Regenerated textile fibers | Cellulosic fibers

TENCEL

        Tencel is a regenerated cellulosic fiber.Tencel fiber is a modified and technically a very acceptable fiber in the textile and fashion industries,specially the fashion designing and fashion clothing.

          Globally,the tencel fiber which is replacing the viscose fiber and the original natural fiber that is cotton.Main purpose of use of the cotton since thousands of years was for its comfort to the human body.Cotton is for comfortness.Cotton is replaced by the viscose,then tencel,then lyocell,then modal,etc,.And also not only in terms of comfort but also in terms of cost,in terms of weight on the body,in terms of shades available and in terms of feasible for the production in the mills as well as in the export houses.

         Tencel feels very smooth,nice,shiny,good strength and many other suitable,benefitable properties the tencel have.Most of the tencel nowadays are blended with cotton fiber,blended with lyocell fiber and blended with other fibers to make the end products cloths or garments whatever,suitable and fit for the best price as well as for the best consumer use.

         The tencel not only makes the fashion designer attracts in terms of hand,in terms of drapability but also feels very indifferent compared to lyocell, compared to cotton and compared to viscose.And also tencel is an eco-friendly fiber.

          Cellulose for Tencel is extracted from Eucalyptus wood pulp.

         The yarn counts of tencel are 30s spun count,that is 30s cotton count,12s cotton count,etc,.Usually most of the tencel yarn are of 30s cotton count,even 40s count.Mostly tencel fabric are woven by blended with other fibers and in a twill weave, 2/1 twill,3/1 tail for shirtings,for ladies wear,specially for the summer wear, spring summer seasons.

Below are the sustainable fibers of Lenzing

TENCEL™ is a cellulosic fiber of botanic origin,has the modified substitute to natural cotton fiber with improved end use properties.

TENCEL™ Lyocel fibers are produced by Lenzing group.Forests are managed for sustainable wood under certified and controlled source for the fiber production.

TENCEL™ Modal fibers are produced from sustainable forests for beach wood  in Austria and neighbouring countries. 

PROPERTIES OF TENCEL FIBER

Staple Length of Tencel Fiber:

Staple length of Tencel fiber have cut length of 38mm.Also available in the range of 12 to 58 mm.

Properties of Tencel Fiber:

Tencel is a regenerated cellulosic fiber.

1.More absorbent than cotton.

2.Softer than silk.

3.Cooler than linen.

4.Linear Density:1.3 to 2.2 dtex.Also possible from light 0.9 dtex to heavy 6.7 dtex based on end use application.

5.Excellent moisture management management.13% of moisture regain %.

6.Tenacity: 36 to 37 grams per Tex for dry state and 16 grams per Tex fir for wet state.

7.Low bacterial growth.

8.No electrostatic changing.

9.Good affinity towards dyes.

10.Good dimensional stability.

11.Good abrasion reactance ability.

12.Moths, mildew are not attracted.

13.Tencel fabrics crease less.

14.Tencel fabrics are easy to iron.

15.Tencel fabrics drapes beautifully.

16.Possess good insulation quality.

Source:

1.www.tencel.com

2.www.lenzing.com

2.Educational qualification and industrial experience of the author/blogger.

Textile and Apparel Industries | An overview

Textile and Apparel Industries | An overview

    Textile has its own history and records marked  at each and every centuries passed by this world with contemporary generations. Clothing essence to the human being are the result hunting the material towards protecting the body against different climatic conditions. Clothing starts thousands of years back in many corner of the world not for the passion but for life essence. Very fine quality clothing in cottons was in Vogue at European continents ,Very fine silk clothing was found at China Continent, Cloths were dyed with natural colors extracted from vegetable plants like indigo specially from Indian continent, wool clothing found at Australian continent. Like many number of exploration in clothing done from innovators from century to century.

    The man who thought of covering his body, slowly discovered the mechanisms to increase the productivity of clothing to make commercialization. In such an adventures, this world saw the yarn spinning technology, fabric weaving technology, coloring technology, printing technology,etc,.All this happened in parallel with human growth from stone age to modern age.

    The technology to be adopted by contemporary textile technician to enhance the productivity, improve the hand feel of cloths and market it at price which should reach the ordinary man was mainly aimed to use available source of the specific continent. The thought of import the material was at sky. The textile technology gained its value, when the emperors or rulers of specific continents  start to get  entry in another continent in the means of politics, foreign trade, wars,etc..In another means there was a need of technology which must be explored to meet the challenges like climatic requirements, war requirements,etc,.On the other means hunting behind technology increased to meet the passion people who wants to enjoy the life.

    The path the textile technology traveled includes spinning yarn from handmade Charaka to High speed whirling spindle machines from coarser count to very fine counts, weaving the fabrics from hand loom to present Auto Air jet looms with from heavier weight to very light weight  range, Tub Indigo dyeing to auto coloring and dyeing machines with very attractive hand feels and comfort. Apart from this man found importance of textile technology to give benefits to the other industries like Aerospace, Ocean, medical, sports, security, etc.,

    History was not marked the mass production of garments but enriched in production of woven and knitted fabrics from 17^th century to 19^th century. Mass garment production appeared in 20^th century. In present 21^st century demand for tailored clothing is losing it value because of the garment technology and designing concepts have taken a lead with creativity and show case ability.  

    Globalization in view of Textiles and Apparels made increased the numbers in entrepreneurs from retail to export.The interest shown by the countries for import and export thought for their benefits in trading of textiles and apparels. This pave them to make tie up with the countries both developed and developing with international laws,rules and regulations,etc..in such an effort   multi fiber agreement was one of the 20^th century trade policy.

    To meet present global market in textiles and apparels, there is a need of technical up gradation and building the strategies in trading are required at the bottom level of the entrepreneurs. That is for the merchants or case worker who plays the main role in the turn over of the   business. The business may be private or public, ultimately the profit or loss of the business depends on the caliber of the employees employed for the purpose of the business. This is one of the important factor the entrepreneurs should understand. The efficiency of the employees of the organization can save the company from loss even at the time of market is in crisis.

    Keeping the above points in view and to boost the apparel business of the company, its required to enlighten the employees by gaining the basic knowledge of Textile Technology to help themselves as well as help the company’s business in terms of growth and profit.

Source:Based on educational qualification and industrial experience of the author, had post graduation in Master of Technology in Textile Technology and has 20 years of experience in both Institutes and Textile & Apparel Industries.

Author/Blogger:Veeranna P Badiger.

Textile fibers | Physical properties | Performance properties

Textile fibers | Physical properties | Performance properties

            Textile fibers are the flexible material composed of polymer chains made of molecules and are identified usually in terms of high length to low width ratio. Fibers are classified into Natural, Regenerated and Man-made.

Natural fibers are grown or cultivated or extracted. Grown natural fibers are exist from vegetable plants. Cultivated fibers are from animal source and Extracted fibers are from Mineral Materials.

Examples of fibers classified as vegetable fibers are Cotton, Jute, Hemp, etc.

Examples of fibers classified as animal fibers are Silk, Wool, etc.

Example of fibers classified as Mineral is asbestos.

            Regenerated fibers are a modified form of natural fibers. Examples of fibers modified based on cotton (Cellulosic) are Rayon, Viscose, Acetate, Tencel, Lyocel,modal,etc.

            Man-made fibers as drawn synthetically as per requirements. Examples of fibers in vogue are Polyester, Nylon, Acrylic, etc.

Fibers used for textile material end use should possess below prime properties.

1.      High Length to Width Ratio

2.      Surface Cohesiveness

3.      Tenacity

4.      Flexibility

5.      Uniformity

High Length to Width Ratio is the physical measurement indicator of fiber. The length should be minimum 100 times more than its width. This ratio in cotton is around 1400 and silk is around 33 x 10 to the power 6.

Surface Cohesiveness is the natural characteristics of fiber to hold one and each other when spun and gives strength to the yarn. This property of fiber will influence on yarn strength as well as its uniformity.

Tenacity of the fiber is the important property indicating the strength of fiber. This tenacity value will differ from fiber to fiber types. Adequate tenacity of the fiber will provide better durability of the end use.Cotton has 3.0 to 5.0 grams of force per denier(gf/d),Wool has 1.0 to 1.7 gf/d, polyester has 2.5 to 6.3 gf/d, nylon has 4.3 to 9.0 gf/d and Rayon has 2.4 to 3.0 gf/d.

Flexibility is the bending property of the fiber playing an important role in comfort to the fabri wear as well as gives better drapability.

Uniformity is pertaining to the shape of the fiber that considers the cross sectional area and longitudinal area of the fiber. The cross section of the fibers may vary from one fiber end to other end. Due to this non-uniform cross sectional areas, the resulted shape may affect the dye uniformity by poor dye fiber affinity. To give uniformity to the fiber, mercerisation process is applied with caustic soda.

Other fiber properties considered to define textile fibers are briefed are listed and briefed below are. These properties will decide with performance of the finished fabric

1.      Physical Shape

2.      Density

3.      Luster

4.      Color

5.      Moisture Regain

6.      Elastic Recovery and Elongation

7.      Resiliency

8.      Flammability

Physical shape : As discussed in the prime properties will play an major role in fabric performance especially in fabric drape, aesthetic, shade consistency as well as strength properties of the finished fabric or end use. Different fiber types have different shapes in cross sectional area apart from their longitudinal appearance. Natural fibers like cotton, wool, jute, silk etc possess their own shapes decided by their nature of their growth while the shape of man-made fibers like polyester,nylon,aramid,acrylic,are manipulated in manufacturing process. Now in the era of  21 cetury,we started to use the modified cellulosic fibers with different petent names and trademarks like Viscose,Rayon,Excel,Tencel,modal,etc…The content of these modified regenerated fibers and natural cotton is same that is ‘’Cellulose’’ but only difference is in the morphology of the fobers.The modification in the morphology is done based on the requirments which suits contemporary fashion trends as well as considering the need of comfort.

Density: Every earthly particle of this world have their own density. Without density no material will appear on this earth. Density is the mass of the material weighs per unit area.All chemical elements found on this earth have their own density. The density is influenced by gravity when the material is on earth. Though the textile fiber is small in size and weight must have density. The density of the textile fiber influence the factors like dye fiber affinity, weight of the finished fabric and comfort of the fabric wearer. And main understanding of this fibe density lies in giving functional performance to the sportswear , active wear and outer wear fabrics.The unit of measurement of fiber density is ‘’Grams per Cubic Centi Meter’’. Natural fibers like Cotton has 1.54 to 1.56 ,Wool has 1.30 to 1.32,Silk has 1.25 to 1.34 while manmde fibers like Polyester has 1.23 to 1.38,Nylon has 1.14 and Spandex has 1.20 to 1.25.

Luster:The word Luster indicate the shininess of the material that is in this case Its Luster of Fiber.The shininess ,semi dullness and dullness in appearance of fiber will directly influence the appearance of the finished fabric. Natural fibers have their own surface appearance and its depends on the surrounding environments where they have been grown or cultivated. But The shininess can be incorporate in man-made synthetic filament fiber based on the requirement. Fabrics need luster level depends on end use used specially for outerwear, casual wear, party wear, etc

Color: The luster defines the shininess of the fiber, whereas color defines the fiber’s visual outcome belongs to which VIBGYOR line..that is Red,Blue,Green,.etc,. Natural cotton fibers possess their own natural colors like off white cotton, bluish cotton and yellowish cotton.Wool has its own shades depends on its origin. Silk has its own shades based on silk work and sericulture done. But color of the synthetics are not decided while manufacturing, instead will be preferred to finish in white only by keep in view of dyed it in required colors.Though the visual shades of the fibers are natural or white but spun grey yarn or woven grey fabric from those fibers are subjected to wet process to bring them to the status of ‘’Prepared for Dyeing’’ before the spun yarn or woven fabric taken for dye to the required colors.But in some natural fibers cases like Jutes,Hemp,Flex,Linen,Wool etc, their natural shades are dominated though they spun into yarn or woven into fabric.

Moisture Regain and Moisture Absorption: One of the important property required for textile fiber is characteristics of absorbing moisture and its regain. This property will help the textile fiber to cooperate in wet processing. If fiber does not have absorbing character, no liquid chemical penetrate into the surface of the fiber and dye fiber affinity will be not there. For Dyeing of the yarn or fabric involves many stages of wet processing. Wet processing needs the core fiber to absorb wet particles. Particle may be any chemical or it may be color. The absorbency of fiber in turn depends on its morphology that is its internal chemistry.The whole wet processing of textiles depends on morphology of fibers.We will discuss about fiber morphology later in dyeing technology. Here we can say the percentage of air space available inside the fiber chemistry will decide the dyeability of the fiber.This available air space will be taken into consideration to judge the absorption capability of the fiber.

            Moisture absorption is the ability of the fiber to absorb surrounding moist during particular time.  Moisture regain is the ability of the fiber to have required moist.Here the moist is water particle. Both Moisture absorption and moisture regain are measured in terms of percentage of oven dry weight of the fiber.The lab will calculate the percentage by measuring weight of the fiber at oven dry condition and by measuring the fiber weight after 48 hours of lab conditioning that is with 23’C Temp and +/-65% Relative humidity. The percentage resulted with the initial weight from the difference between oven dry weight & conditioned weight will indicate the ability of the fiber to absorb.[ give % of different fibers].The testing of moisture absorbency will help in deciding the dye ability of the fibers.

Elastic Recovery and Elongation: Textile fibers are flexible in nature and should have property of elongate and recover when subjected to stress and strain. The fibers and yarns in the garment are subjected to stress and strain while body is in movement. Due to this the chances of fibers gets elongate to its capable extent when strain is caused and attaint its original state when strain is released. If the fiber does not have this quality of elongation and attaining back, then fiber rupture can takes place.  Such fibers cannot be used for production of cloth for garment end use.

            Fibers getting elongate from its original size to its capable extent when applied tension is measured in terms of ‘’Percentage of Elongation’’ .Like that, the ability of fibers attaining back to its original state is expressed as Elastic recovery and measured in terms of ‘’Percentage of Recovery’’ [ give % of different fibers].Elastic recovery and elongation also influence the strength characteristics of the yarns and fabrics. That is the tear strength and tensile strength of the fabric. This will be discussed in textile testing part.

Resiliency: This is the state of the fiber attained its complete rest position when tension is removed and cannot recover further or elongate further.All textile fibers should have this character and its part of property of elongation and recovery. Dimensional stability of the fabric is measured based on this resilience character. Fibers, yarns and fabrics are subjected to many stress and strains from spinning to wet processing of fabrics. When fabric reached its finishing stage,the fabric is  passed through Sanforization treatment in the mill. That is making the fabric dimensionally stable.Making the fabric stretch and shrunk will makes the fibers attain their rest position as well as reduce the yarns elongation.This will result in controlled shrinkage rate.

            Why natural fiber fabrics shrunk more compared to man-made fiber fabrics ?.The reason is the morphology of the man-made fibers are controlled manually ,so the fabrics are stable, as the morphology of natural fibers are varying and need additional applications.

Flammability: Flammability is also the essential property for the garments, especially for the end uses which are need to wear by workmen who work in the industries at floor, who involved in extinguishing of fire and areas where chances of fire expected. Flammability of the textile fibers  or fabrics is an risk factor while considering for end use.The behaviour of fibers when comes in contact with the fire as well as the duration of withstanding the fire are varying from fiber to fiber. Some fibers catch fire immediately, some fibers takes time to burn, some fibers melt & lose the shape.Some fibers gets fire even at higher surrounding temperature.If fibers are flammable but need for end use, then its required to apply the finish’’Fire Proof’’ or ‘Fire Retardant’’ to the fabrics. Complete fire proof is difficult but fire retardant is feasible to increase the fire resisting time.This fire resisting time of fabric will help victim to come out from the risk.  So this flammability test is made mandatory by many global brands.

Classification of textile fibers - Natural fibers

Natural Fibers

                Natural textile fibers are as title says these fibers are originated from nature. The sources of nature are Vegetable, Animal and Mineral.

The fibers comes under Vegetable fibers are grouped as Cellulose Fibers, Protein Fibers, Mineral fibers .

Cellulosic Fibers: The fibers belongs to this class are regrouped as Seed Hairs, Bast Fibers , Leaf fibers and Nut husk fibers.

Cotton belongs to seed hair category.

Flax, Hemp, Ramie and Jute belongs to bast fibers.

Abaca, Pineapple, New Zealand Flax belongs to leaf fibers.

 Coir( Coconut ) belongs to Nut husk Fibers.

Protein Fibers: The fiber belongs to this class are regrouped as Animal-Hair Fibers and Animal Secretion

                Wool (from Sheep) and special fibers like Cashmere and Mohair (Angora goat) belongs to Animal hair.

               Fur fiber Angora rabbit also falls to animal hair category.

                Silk (Cultivated, Dupion, Tussah ) and Spider Silk belongs to animal secretion class of fibers.

Mineral Fibers: Asbestos (rock source) falls to this mineral fiber category.

Note: This article will be updated as and when required.

Basic dyes | Textile dyes | Textile chemistry

Introduction: 

          The dyes are classified as water-soluble dyes and water insoluble dyes. Other types of classdification of dyes are synthetic dyes and natural dyes.The dyes available in the market,those are in the form of ready made, in the powder, some cases in paste form,used for dyeing of the fabrics or printing of the fabrics. Even dyes are used for paper printings.

Basic dyes: 

          Basic dyes are water insoluble dyes. These are not soluble in water directly when the powder form or paste form of the dye is dissolved in water, like reactive dyes, acid dyes, etc,.But the direct dyes are dissolved in water.Basic dyes are water insoluble,then how to make it dissolve in water ?.Without dissolution in water,the dye solution cannot be prepared.If the solution is not prepared,how the exhaustion takes place ?.That is the absorption of colour by fibers due to the affinity between the dye particle and the textile fibers.

          So to prepare the dye solution, the basic dye must dissolve in water. It will require conversion of water insoluble dyes into soluble dyes. After dissolving only, it will be absorbed by the textile material.Textile material may be a yarn or fabric.

Protein fibers:

          Basic dyes are used for dyeing of textile materials made from protein fibers. Acid dyes are also used to dye protein fibers. What are those protein fibers ?. Fibers, which are naturally available are silk and wool.

          Silk is available in filament form. The substance present in the protein fiber silk is Fibroin.

          Wool is made of the protein substance keratin extracted from skin of sheep.The fibers are naturally in the staple form.

          And basic dyes are used to dye the synthetic fibers made from synthesized proteins. That is protein fiber made synthetically

          These protein fibers, whichever fiber contain inside,the poly molecular structure, that is polymerization or polymerized structure.

Cellulosic fibers:

          In previous days or even nowadays, the cellulosic fibers like natural cotton and regenerated viscose rayon are dyed by the basic dyes. But the fastness of a dye used for cellulosic fibers is very very poor, especially washing fastness.

Mordants:

          The cellulosic fibers are dyed by basic dyes by the help of mordants.Mordants have affinity towards both dyes and textile fibers. Mordants are the chemical agents,also called as dyeing agents. Mordants will help to make the cellulosic material absorb the basic dyes. First the cellulosic material that may be yarn or fabric is mordanted. Mordanted means, the fabric or the yarn is treated with mordants. So that,it will make the cellulosic material to absorb the dye particles.Example of natural mordant is Tannic acid.

Mechanism of Dyeing:

         What is the mechanism involved in the dying of cellulosic fibers and protien fiberd by the basic dyes ?. That is the basic dyes, when dissolved in water, even after treated with mordants,ionisation takes place in the dye bath.

          The dye bath is neutralised with acetic acid or hydrochloric acid before the material is dipped for dyeing. If the dye bath is neutralised with hydrochloric acid, the chloride of the basic dyes are creates which are colourless in nature but negatively charged.Other coloured parts creates are the positively charged and are responsible for dyeing.These coloured part is called cation.

          Cations are used to fix on the anion part or site of the macromolecules of the cellulosic fiber or protein fibers.The cation of the basic dye is a coloured part of the dye. And anion is a colourless part of the dye. For dyeing is required coloured part. That is cation is required.

          If basic dyes are dyed with the cellulosic fibers, mordants are used.For protein fibers, no the mordant is required.

          Whatever the free base dye having positively charged coloured part cation is making electrovalent bond with the anion part of the of the site of the macromolecules of the fiber. So that,the fixing of the color takes place.

Chemistry of Dyeing:

          Basic Dyes have amino group in their molecular structure like -NH2, -N(CH3)2, -N(C2H2)2,etc,..are takes active part in the dyeing process.

          Cellulosic fibers contain -OH (Hydroxy)groups in their molecular structure are takes active part in the dyeing process.

          -COOH (Corboxy)group prefer in the polymer chains of protein fibers takes active part in the dyeing process.

After treatment:

          Even after dying, the after treatments are required to improve the fastness of the day or to improve the shade of the dye.

Note: This article is going to be update time to time and as and when required.