Coloured Cotton

Coloured Cotton

     Coloured cotton refers to natural pigmented cotton fibers that grow in different shades such as brown, green, red, blue, or beige rather than usual White cotton. Unlike conventionally grown white cotton, which must be dyed to achieve colour,coloured cotton gets its hue from natural genetic variations in the cotton plant.

Characteristics of coloured cotton: 

• Natural pigmentation. 

• Environmental benefits.

• Soft Ness & Texture.

• Colour range.

• Genetic origin.

Scientific Background:

•      The pigments that creates colour in cotton are namely “flavonoids" (for browns) and quinones or tannins (for green)

• Bleeding programs and biotechnological advances are improving the fiber length, yield, and brightness of coloured cotton varieties.

• Transagenic techniques are being explored to introduce stronger pigmentation genes into commercial cotton.

Environmental and Industrial Significance:

• Eco-friendly: Avoids toxic dyes and large water consumption during textile processing.

• Sustainable fashion: Increasingly used in eco-textile industries and organic apparel brands.

• Challenges: Lower yield, limited colour range and fading under UV exposure have restricted it's industrial scale adoption.

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ORGANIC COTTON

Brief Introduction to Organic cotton

     Organic cotton fibers are not differ from regular cotton fibers. Cotton plants are grown naturally without the use of synthetic fertilizer or pesticides. From sown to seeds to harvesting of cotton pods involved use of biological cycles only.

     Agricultural chemicals used for better yield with better quality. The intention behind avoiding the use of fertilizer or any kind of chemical in cotton cultivation is to protect the environment and soil. To have organic cotton and avoid use of pesticides, a system has been developed at the global level that regulates and controls the process of farming, which will include giving approval and supporting to the farmers to grow organic cotton. Each and every stage the process is monitored and verified by the governing body of organic cotton.

 

    The sustainable cotton project of the global leadership is helping farmers to change their production of conventional cotton growth, found successful in many countries like Turkey, India, China, Pakistan, Brazil, Australia, US and African countries, mainly Egypt. And global apparel brands like Nike, Wallmart, C&A, H&M,etc, have switched to organic cotton.

     GOTS ( The Global Organic Textile Standard ) is the certification body of global organic cotton. GOTS was developed with the aim of defining requirements that are recognised world wide and that ensure the organic status of textiles from harvesting of the raw materials through environmentally and socially responsible manufacturing all the way to labelling in order to provide credible assurance to the consumer.

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NOTES ON COTTON FIBER

Introduction to Cotton Fiber: 

     Cotton is the king and Silk is the queen of the textile world. Both are dominating the clothing area of the human essentials though man-made technology developed to the extent of fulfilling the need of clothing. Cotton maintained its value in history and continued to gain importance in the present and future. History says, cotton was known by the people who lived 5000 years back. People knew the technology of growing the Cotton plant, spinning the yarn and get it woven. As we came to know, cotton dominating countries were India and its surrounding countries, Egypt, Australia and the American continent. Among these India was the main country producing cotton fiber. Cotton is one of the prime crops of Indian agriculture.

     Cotton belongs to the biological genus gossypium of the Malvaceae family. The fiber is completely composed of cellulose.

Production of cotton fiber :

     Cotton is cultivated in the soil which is heavy and in an environment of frost free period and in moderate rain fall. Nowadays even cotton plants are cultivating in lands of less rainfall but with getting land irrigated. The plants usually grow to a height of 1 to 2 meters depending on area and environment. It has 3 to 7 lobes with large size leaves giving pods or boll containing seeds. These cotton seeds are surrounded by fibers grown from the surface of the seed. The boll of cotton seeds is supported by flowers, makes the plant look very beautiful and indicates the farmer to initiate harvesting.

     Harvesting is done both mechanically as well as by hand. Boll picking machines and stripers are used in many developed countries. These machines will pick and separate the pods without damaging the plants. But in some developing countries still the cropping is done by farmers' hands. Harvesting takes place only after the flower has dried and the pods open itself to sun shines. For cropping, the pods are in a state of complete driedness and fibers are free to be exposed to light. The picked pods are taken for the ginning process.  Cotton covers 25 % of the world's cultivated land.

Ginning and Packing of Cotton Fibers:

     Ginning is the mechanical process of separating the fibers from the skin of the seed. This process requires the fibers attached to the seed must be free from moisture. The machines are developed for greater efficiency and productivity and have the mechanism of feeding cotton seeds passing through cylinders mounted with sharp saws and pinned belts. The machines separate the seed and fibers as well as throughout the trash including dust particles,husk, leaves,etc, whatever comes from the farm along with cotton pods.

     The fibers coming out from the gin machine are packed in a compact form called “ Bale " with specific weight to send it to spinning mills for yarn manufacturing.

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FABRIC WIDTH and SHRINKAGE

FABRIC WIDTH and SHRINKAGE 

(Part-1)

The knowledge of fabric width is more important for those who handle the fabric either in textile mills or garments stitching industries.

Cause roots for change in fabric width:

Fabric is woven in the loom by interlacement of warp (lengthwise threads) yarns and weft (width wise threads) yarns with the planned weave patterns,  that is plain weave, twill weave, satin weave, etc.,. The fabric taken out from the loom is called “Gray" fabric has width equals to reed width of the loom. The yarns placed in this fabric are subjected to tension controlled by warp beam, healds movement and taken off roller.

The width of the finished fabric which is sold does not the same as the loom finished gray fabric. The below are the reasons.

• The gray fabric is further taken for dyeing preparatory processes like desizing, scouring, bleaching, mercerisation, etc. The gray fabric is subjected to these treatment processes. In these treatments, the gray fabric gets contracted and yarns get closer, in turn the fabric width gets reduced. 

• The aboved treated fabric is further taken for dyeing. That is coloring the fabric. This is also a wet treatment process, the fabric subjected to contraction in turn width is still reduced to maximum limit.

• After the dyeing process, the fabric is taken for technical finish that is performance finish fabric based on end use applications. Most of these finishes include wet treatments.

• The other important factors need to be noted is that, the fabric is subjected to heat, tension and pressure in the above wet treatments.

• On the other hand, the fabric width can be fixed or altered by other technical finishes like stentering.

Factors influencing change in width are as below.

• Fabric construction type:The contraction of fabric width depends upon the type of weave or interlacement methods. Some fabrics are woven, some fabrics are knitted and some fabrics are non woven.

• Fiber content type: The change in the fabric width is varying based on fiber content in the fabric. Example, 100%cotton fabric contracts more than polyester fabric or blended fiber fabric.

• Fabric construction level: In space between yarns in woven fabrics and gauges fixed in the knitted fabrics, thickness of the fabric, etc,.

To be continued …

✍️Veeranna

Blogger 

APPAREL QUALITY AND PERFORMANCE

APPAREL QUALITY AND PERFORMANCE 

Quality is an essential “Nature” of the product. It may be any of the below factors of that product.

• Inherent property

• Distinguishing characteristics 

• Superiority

• Excellence

• Perceived value of that product. 

Exact characteristics that are perceived as “Quality features" are vary according to the standards of each individual.

Apparel quality and performance:

Apparel quality and performance are subject to below factors of the individual.

• Experiences

• Understandings

• Standards

• Expectations.

The term individual indicates for 

• Person (male or female)

• People ( Group or Team)

• Organization or institute

For some individual, quality is goodness or luxury. For other individuals, quality is durability, beauty, labels or high prices.

The apparel performance may be based on quality characteristics that can be incorporated into a product line are those that customers desire and are willing to pay for and that can be cost-effective.

Perceived quality: The quality can be perceived by the individual is an integral part of the apparel. This includes the intrinsic cues and extrinsic cues. 

Intrinsic cues/Intrinsic quality: It relates to the innate and essential parts or inherent nature of the appare. And are created during the product manufacturing based on styling, fit, materials and assembly methods.

In general, customers are not well informed about properties of fibers, yarns, fabrics, finishes and garment assembly processes to evaluate intrinsic quality and performance of apparel. Therefore, an objective analysis of the intrinsic quality or performance of apparel is often not possible.

Extrinsic cues/Extrinsic quality: Extrinsic cues originate from outside the product and are not inherent parts of the product. Prices, brand names, reputations of retailers or stores, labels, visual merchandising techniques, and advertising are common extrinsic cues.

For customers,extrinsic cues seem to be less complex to understand the apparel quality than intrinsic cues. 

Manufacturers and retailers frequently used extrinsic cues to influence perceptions of product quality, value and performance.

✍️Veeranna P Badiger 

     Blogger

Apparel industry Vs Fashion trends

APPAREL INDUSTRY Vs FASHION TRENDS

The apparel industry is a larger commercialized business oriented organisation involving merchandising, marketing, producing and distributing.

Apparel industry entrepreneurs always influenced by the below factors. 

1. Apparel performance 

2. Quality suits to price limitations 

3. Cost structures 

4. Product standards 

5. Profit goals

6. Target customer expectations

The correlation among price, performance and quality may be faulty in today's apparel market, as business stands on fashion trends includes tastes & passion of end consumers.

FASHION TRENDS 

The apparel business is widely known as the fashion business.

According to fashion theory, consumers quickly become bored with whatever is widely accepted. Consumers constantly seek new and different varieties of products. Fashion change and seasonal change are the two eyes of fashion trends.

Fashion change relates to below factors to influence fashion trends.

1. Changes in colour

2. Changes in styling 

3. Changes in fabrication 

4. Changes in silhouette 

5. Changes in performance 

Seasonal changes are influenced by below factors 

1. Weather

2. Holidays 

3. School year

4. Cultural 

5. Religious 

6. Traditions

Seasonal change is often confussed with fashion change. Seasonal changes results in the modification of products available on the market and used by the consumers according to the seasons of the year or climatic conditions of the specific regions.

The combination of fashion change and seasonal change makes the apparel business the most change intensive business in the global market.

Apparel professionals plan and implement product changes based on interpretations of target customer’s expectations.

Apparel manufacturers, retailers, and consumers must ready to accept and expect from changes in apparel

Many global apparel brands develop five products lines a year. Some introduce new styles on a monthly or even weekly basis. So apparel manufacturers must be flexible and completely oriented to change.

Time scheduling on the production floor is the important base for managing change that requires to hit the time based market.

A fashion or seasonal product that hits the market a few days late may be totally unusable.

Thus, apparel manufacturers and retailers must constantly work against deadlines.

Below factors make the apparel business unique 

1. Labour intensity 

2. Soft materials 

3. Fashion trends

4. Seasonal changes

5. Critical timing

To be continued...

OBJECTIVES OF TEXTILE TESTING - Introduction

OBJECTIVES OF TEXTILE TESTING

Testing is done to research whether the material is meeting requirement of its end use fixed with already confirmed specifications.

Scientist in the lab performing their tests with many possible studies in their planned direction. The road they travel in research may have positive as well as negative results or success or failures. After many trials, they come to conclude one suitable result as a choice to finalise their research. 

Their theories may be found sound enough to approve the research, but the experiment on the approved theory may have disappeared.

Objectives of textile testing is to decide the tested specimen whether suitable for end use or not or what improvement can be done to meet the end use or not suitable for end use. Experimental approval says  reject or accept or conditional approval.

Testing of industrial products is to judge for commercialisation not only to satisfy the product manufacturers but also the buyers or purchasers by involving third product unknown party to certify.

In textiles and apparel industries, whole marketing or sales depends on the product quality certificate issued by third party lab. 

Nowadays the market is quality conscious more than price. Global apparel brands and retail brands look for a confident price tag whatever value the consumer purchases by feeling of good quality.

Protecting human health and the global environment from hazardous substances content in the salable product are the other factors. Products are sustainable, recyclable and free from toxic content. To confirm, testing is required.

Blogger

Mr. Veeranna P BADIGER

M. Tech in Textile technology 

06.06.2024

New Sustainable Fibre alternative to Polyester Fibre

  

HeiQ is an innovative company of Swiss applied its research work of new regenerated filament fibre practically with the garment product produced by apparel brand Hugo Boss.

The new sustainable filament fibre has trade mark HeiQ AeoniQ™ has feature of sustainability, bio-degradable and environment friendly product ready to replace synthetic fibres like Polyester.

This new cellulosic fibre produced from certified wood pulp possess the properties of synthetic fibres in terms of tensile strength, elasticity and abrasion resistance. Its a recyclable material with the same performance attributes as polyester.

The global brand Hugo Boss used 87% AeoniQ yarn in its high-seamless performance polo shirt (Limited Edition) and launched recently. Brand aims at, that delivers the promise of sustainability and true circularity.

Updated by,

Author: Veeranna P Badiger

Youtuber/Blogger

https://www.youtube.com/@guruveeratextileengineering999

https://guruveeratextilenotes.blogspot.com

KNITTING MACHINES INNOVATION

KNITTING MACHINE INNOVATION

The use of knitted structure s made by machines date back to AD1589, when an Englishman William Lee developed the first mechanical knitting frame.This was of flat bed types with spring-beared needles. It remained use as for over 200 years.

J.Strut developed a ribbing device in end of 18th century.

Mr. Brunel invented the circular knitting machine in AD1816.

Although major improvements have been made in knitting machines during the 20th century, the basic principles of interlooping of yarns remains much the same.

PRODUCTION & CONSUMPTION

Production and consumption of knitted fabrics increased dramatically between 1866 and the mid 1950s.

Note: This informative article will be updated as and when required.

कृत्रिम कपड़े की सांस लेने की क्षमता

कृत्रिम कपड़े की सांस लेने की क्षमता 

कपास, लिनन से बने अधिकांश कपड़े सांस लेने योग्य होते हैं। प्राकृतिक फाइबर के कपड़े सांस लेने योग्य होते हैं। लेकिन वे वर्तमान दुनिया के लिए पर्याप्त नहीं हैं।

तो, तकनीक को अद्यतन किया जाता है या प्रौद्योगिकी का आविष्कार किया जाता है और अनुसंधान किया जाता है। और अभी भी वर्तमान खेलों, युवाओं और अन्य आवश्यकताओं केs लिए आवश्यक कपड़ों की कृत्रिम सांस लेने की तकनीक में अनुसंधान जारी है।

इस वर्ग में, मैं मुख्य रूप से नमी प्रबंधन और जलरोधक सांस लेने वाले कपड़ों पर कवर कर रहा हूं। ये सभी कृत्रिम निर्माण से संबंधित हैं। कृत्रिम सांस लेने की क्षमता ज्यादातर पॉलिएस्टर बेस फैब्रिक और नायलॉन बेस फैब्रिक को दी जाती है। अब जो भी खेल संस्कृति है और कोलंबिया, एडिडास, रीबॉक, नाइके, हर्ली और कई अन्य जैसे वैश्विक परिधान ब्रांड पॉलिएस्टर आधारित इन कृत्रिम कपड़ों का उपयोग करते हैं। कपड़े और नायलॉन आधारित कपड़े कोटिंग या लैमिनेटिंग या झिल्ली के साथ बंधे के माध्यम से। झिल्ली आधार कपड़े को दी गई अतिरिक्त परत के रूप में सांस लेने की क्षमता की पतली फिल्म है। यानी अतिरिक्त परत का मतलब है कि यह फिल्म या पतली परत के पतले रूप में है। या झिल्ली या एक कोटिंग हो सकती है या कोई अन्य रूप हो सकती है।

देखिए, हमारा मानव शरीर विश्राम की अवस्था में भी जलवाष्प छोड़ रहा है। सामान्य कमरे के तापमान और परिस्थितियों में 60 मिलीलीटर जल वाष्प। यह सामान्य है।

शरीर गर्मी पैदा कर रहा है। मानव शरीर देखें या मानव शरीर रचना विज्ञान या शरीर की इंजीनियरिंग बहुत जटिल है। यह भगवान द्वारा बनाया गया है।

यह केवल विभिन्न अंगों, विभिन्न सेंसर और अन्य चीजों के शरीर रचना विज्ञान का संचय या कनेक्शन नहीं है। मानव शरीर में एक जटिल इंजीनियरिंग और तकनीक है।

वह बहुत जटिल इंजीनियरिंग है। यहां तक ​​कि जो भी चिकित्सक, वैज्ञानिक हैं, उन्हें अभी भी मानव शरीर रचना को समझने की जरूरत है।

कैसे भगवान ने इस मानव शरीर को बनाया। न केवल मानव शरीर बल्कि इस ब्रह्मांड के किसी भी अन्य जीवित जीवन।

अब, शरीर को गर्मी मिलती है। पिछली कक्षा में पहले ही मैंने बताया था कि, एथलीट, खिलाड़ी, या जो कोई भी शरीर को हिलाने या व्यायाम करने, चलने या कड़ी मेहनत करने में शामिल है।

शरीर जो कुछ भी ऊर्जा पैदा करने में शामिल होता है, गर्मी को छोड़ता है, पसीना या पसीना आता है। पसीना बाहर जाना पड़ता है।

उसे आराम महसूस करना ठीक है। शरीर जो भी गर्मी उत्पन्न करता है वह पसीना या पसीना छोड़ता है, शरीर का पसीना, पसीना या पानी के कण होते हैं या पानी के अणु होते हैं, यानी नमी के रूप में।

पानी की नमी है। वह नमी क्या है?. पानी के अणुओं, पसीने या पानी के अणुओं से बने पसीने की सामग्री है। वाष्प, जल वाष्प अंदर जारी। यानी जो भी व्यक्ति खोल के कपड़े पहने, शरीर का कपड़ा।

मानव शरीर की त्वचा और कपड़े या परिधान पहनने के बीच का स्थान। उनके बीच के गैप के बीच पसीना या नमी उत्पन्न होती है।

नमी पानी के अणुओं से बनी होती है न कि पानी की बूंदों या पानी के अणुओं से।ठीक है। वह वाष्प, अगर वह अंदर है, तो व्यक्ति नरक में है, इसका मतलब है कि वह आराम नहीं है।

वह ठंडा महसूस करना चाहता है, वह सूखा महसूस करना चाहता है। तो क्या हुआ, अगर गर्मी का मौसम है, तो सूती कपड़े का प्रयोग होता है। लिनन के कपड़े उपयोग में हैं।

सूती कपड़े, यदि आप इसका उपयोग करते हैं, तो गर्मियों में हल्के वजन के कपास, यह पानी के अणुओं को वाष्पित कर देता है और सूखने के लिए वेंटिलेशन होगा।

लेकिन जब खिलाड़ी या एथलीट या कोई भी व्यक्ति बहुत व्यस्त कार्यक्रम में होता है, तो उनका शरीर हिल रहा होता है। एक्टिव बॉडी रहेगी।

सिर्फ यहाँ ही नहीं, गर्मियों में क्या बात कर रहा हूँ, बल्कि स्पोर्ट्स पर्सन, माउंटेनियरिंग पर्सन, क्लाइम्बिंग पर्सन, स्नो बोर्ड सर्फ़िंग पर्सन, स्पोर्ट्स एथलीट जो भी हो, उन्हें अपने आस-पास के माहौल के हिसाब से कपड़े पहनने होते हैं।

न केवल गर्मियों की जलवायु, यह विभिन्न देशों, विभिन्न महाद्वीपों की अलग-अलग जलवायु हो सकती है। जलवायु के आधार पर, उन्हें कपड़ों का न्याय करना और पहनना होता है।

 परिधान में व्यक्ति को क्या रखना है, आराम। ठंडे बर्फीले इलाके में भी उसे अंदर ही अंदर गर्मी महसूस करनी पड़ती है।

 उसे मोटा कपड़ा पहनना है। ठंडे पहाड़ में कोई भी सैनिक सुरक्षात्मक कपड़े पहनता है।

यहां तक ​​कि सुरक्षात्मक कपड़े भी उसे हिमालय पर्वत श्रृंखला या पर्वत श्रृंखला में बहुत ठंड से बचा सकते हैं, ठीक है कि माइनस डिग्री तापमान पर भी वह कपड़ा रक्षा कर सकता है।

 लेकिन साथ ही, उसे आराम महसूस करना पड़ता है, उसे सांस लेना पड़ता है, जो कुछ भी उत्पन्न करता है ,पसीना या गर्मी की पीढ़ी को बाहर जाना पड़ता है।

नोट: यह लेख लेखक के अनुभव के आधार पर लिखा गया है। लेखक ने फैब्रिक डेवलपर और आयात से सोर्सिंग के रूप में 11 साल काम किया।

Chemical structure of Reactive Dyes

Chemical structure of Reactive Dyes

Introduction:

Compare to direct dyes or acid dyes, reactive dyes are different in their chemical structure,reaction and thier fastness performance. 

the above figure shows the example of chemical structure of reactive dyes.Red colour reactive dye structure. The structure is formed by the arrangements of benzene rings,chemical groups with bindings.For readers information,chemical structures of dyes are read in many ways.Some authors read in R-B-X form and some in D-B-G-S form. Here we consider as "General structure of reactive dyes in C-B-R form".

Study of structure in C-B-R  form. 

C indicates first letter of the word chromogen or chromophore, is a colour producing part or substrate of reactive dyes.The cause to produce colours yellow ,red, blue ,etc,.whatever that colour making part is called chromogen or chromophore.In the above structure Sodium sulphide NaSo3 is the colour making part.

B indicates first letter of the word bridging for bridging group.Bridging group makes link between colour part and reactive group.Bridging group here is -NH.

R indicates the first letter of the reactive group.Another group formed with Cl. That is chloride particle. This is the reactive group.This will react with the polymer chain of the textile fibres.

So the structure contain Sodium sulphide NaSo3 polymer chain, -OH group, -NH group and Cl group.Totally making red colour reactive dye.

In this reactive red colour,sodium sulphide is there,-NH is there and Cl is there.But in other case,Bromine Br will be there in place of Cl and ethyl or methyl or oxide will be there in place of -NH bridging group.

And one more point in this reactive dye is most of the cases,the colour making part may change.This may be an Azo or Anthraquinon,phthalocyanon or metal complex. Colours are made by these chromogen or chromophore groups.But study saying that most of the dyes are made of Azo groups.

Colour group,bridging group and reactive group. These three parts are there in any reactive chemical structure. But chemicals will be changed.

Note: This article will be updated as and when required.

Source:

1.Ref: Chemistry of Dyes and Principles of Dyeing by V A Shenai.

2.Educational qualification and industrial experience of the author/blogger.

STAPLE FIBERS MIXING IN CONVENTIONAL SPINNING MILL

STAPLE FIBERS MIXING IN CONVENTIONAL SPINNING MILL

Objectives of Mixing:

          Mixing is one of the most important aspects in achieving good yarn quality in cotton spinning mills.Below are the three objectives of mixing different varieties of cotton bales.

1.To achieve homogeneous mixing of fiber.

2.To achieve desired spun yarn quality.

3.To achieve minimum cost.

Types of Mixing:

          Below are the regular mixing types which are in practice in the conventional spinning mills.

20s Mixing

30s Mixing

Polyester/Cotton (P/C)Mixing

20s Mixing:

20s Mixing is used for 24 EXP Quality yarn,24 Local quality yarn and P/C yarn quality.

Example of percentage of cotton varieties mixed in 20s Mixing as below

1.J-34 Saw gin cotton (60%)

2.LRH Super (10%)

3.NHH 44PC (20%)

4.F414 ST (10%)

30s Mixing:

30s Mixing is used for 30 EXP quality yarn,40 EXP quality yarn.

Example of percentage of cotton varieties mixed in 30s Mixing as below

1.H4 (80%)

2.LRA (10%)

3.FRFC (10%)

Polyester Mixing:

Example of percentage of polyester varieties mixing is as below.

1.S4 (50%)

2.MECHI (50%)

Source: Educational Qualification ,Teaching and  Industrial Experience of the Author.

About author related to this article.

Author has worked in cotton  spinning mills in below mills

1.Sri Anjaneya Cotton Mills,Davanagere.

2.Forbs Gokak Ltd.

Note: This article or information will be updated as and when required.

TENACITY OF TEXTILE FIBERS AND STRENGTH OF PRODUCTS

TENACITY OF TEXTILE FIBERS AND STRENGTH OF PRODUCTS

          Tenacity, the term used for strength of the textile fibers in the form of hair is directly influenced by its morphology. If highly oriented polymer chain regions in fiber structure are high, then tenacity of that fiber will be high.

          Yarn strength in terms of Tensile strength also influenced by fiber Tenacity but with additional factors like twist per inch, level of yarn ply, cohesiveness, etc,. in yarn.

          Fabric strength influenced by fiber Tenacity but with additional factors like fabric cover,nwet process condition, fabric finishes, coatings, etc,.

          Garment strength also influenced by fiber Tenacity but with additional factors like fabric strength as said above, stitch per inch, size of the fabric cut, garment finish or treatments, etc,..

          On the other hand, if tenacity of fiber is badly affected by treatments involved with chemicals involvement, subjected to temperature variations, etc, may reduce the strength of the product.

           The Pass Test report depends on end customer requirements and acceptance.

Examples of Tenacity of few popular fibers are given below:

(Tenacity Expressed in Grams per Denier)

Raw Cotton: 3.0 to 5.0

Silk: 2.4 to 5.1

Wool: 1.0 to 1.7

Acrylic: 2.0 to 3.6

Polyester (Regular): 2.5 to 6.3

Polyester (High Tenacity): 6.0 to 9.5

Nylon 6 (Regular): 3.5 to 9.0

Nylon 6 (High Tenacity): 7.7 to 9.5

Nylon 6,6 (Regular): 4.3 to 9.0

Nylon 6,6 (High Tenacity): 5.7 to 9.5

Etc,..

Tenacity of the individual fibers can also be expressed in terms of Grams per Tex.

Source: Education Qualification & Industrial Experience of the Author.

Reference: "Textile Science "by E.P.G.Goel L.D.Vilensky.

A BRIEF NOTE ON RSL MANAGEMENT IN TEXTILE & APPERAL INDUDTRIES

   A BRIEF NOTE ON RSL MANAGEMENT IN TEXTILE & APPERAL INDUDTRIES  

    

          In today's global textiles and apperals manufacturing industries as well as in the consumer end,the awareness of few chemicals which are essential to use in their product to finish it as per end use requirements. 

          The chemical used by mainly wet processing industries are facing challenges to meet their market requirements in terms of chemical testing as per laws and regulations laid by the governing bodies of importing countries.But there is no excuse or relax to meet it by regulatory compliance.

          What are those regulations,what they say ?.They said not to use chemicals listed and banned globally,which are harmful to the human health as well as surrounding environment.Go for green chemistry in textiles, apperals and footwear production.And avoid hazardous chemicals in the stages of manufacturing and finishing.Hazardous chemicals even cause for cancer in turn to death.

          AAFA (American Apperal & Footwear Associations),an environmental oriented group and AFIRM (Apparel and Footwear International RSL Management) group, are both engaged fully in helping textile, apperal and footwear Industries to produce RSL (Restricted Substances List ) free products & supply to reach end consumer with the safe products.

          The major countries like USA,EU,JAPAN, CHINA, involved in Export/Import of Textile,Apparel and Footwear have laid their own laws and regulations in particular about permitting acceptable amount of banned chemicals in their imported goods.Some chemicals are totally prohibited by them.

          Why I am writing this note is,it's one of the global heart burning topic of complying to the regulations and keep the earth and it's lifes safe.

          The endangered issues like Global warming,Increased population,Environmental pollution,Deforestation,Unbalancing of Seasons of nature, Factory releases,Decrease in the population of wild or forest animals,Dyeing of Aquarian animals, Scarcity of safe drinking water are threatening the upcoming generations.

          More than this,the other threatening issue is chemical content of the products produced by man.Ex:The consumer man or woman or children who purchases the goods finished with banned chemicals may be a victim of skin infections or cancer or other deceases.Its case to case,not always.

          Below are few globally banned chemical examples listing below,which are permanently prohibited or permitted little amount in their imported manufactured goods.These permissions are varies country to country.

Lead

Mercury

Nickel

Antimony,

Arsenic

Formaldehyde

PFOS(Perfluorooctane sulfonate)

PFOA(Perfluorooctane acid)

Hydrofluorocarbons (HFCs)

Perfluorocarbons (PFCs)

pH Value

Etc,..

          The chemical content permission (for its imported goods )of specific goods receipt country are available in the list provided by AAFA.We can not highlight those data in this note.

          Examples of permission level of chemical content are in micro livel as below:

Lead : 0.1 ppm

Mercury : 0.02 ppm

Nickel : 1.0 ppm

Formaldehyde : Not detected for 0 to 36 months child

Formaldehyde : 75 ppm for 36 and above has goods direct skin touch

Formaldehyde : up to 300ppm for goods has not touch the skin.

PFOS : 1 angstrom unit per meter square

Etc,.....

WHO ARE ALL RESPONSIBLE FOR RSL COMPLIANCE IN TEXTILE & APPAREL INDUSTRIES ?

          Participation of one or two sections of the clothing industries will not help in supplying RSL free product to end consumer.This is an involvement of supply chain from fiber production stage to garment seller stage.

          Firstly,chemical supplier at bottom stage who supplies his chemical to yarn mill,weaving mill,dyeing mill,finishing mill and garment treatment units has great responsibility for RSL free end product.And has to produce third party PASS chemical test report to his immediate customer.

          Secondly,The yarn or fabric wet processor has to purchase chemicals with PASS test report.And after finishing his wet processing,the dyed, finished goods are to be tested at third party to supply his yarn or fabric with PASS test report to garment manufacturer.

          Thirdly,the received fabric to be cut for stitching only after receipt of PASS test report from fabric supplier.Once garment is finished to pack it,garment factory has to produce third party PASS chemical test report to garment buyers.If PASS,garments shipment will move for consumer use.

          This is how,the most global apparel brands are expected to process their merchandise with RSL free.

          The material development team is responsible for RSL free product supply in each section of clothing industry.

Source:Based on industrial experience of the Author/Blogger.

         

MOISTURE MANAGEMENT IN TEXTILE FABRICS

   MOISTURE MANAGEMENT IN TEXTILE FABRICS

Fabrics made of natural fibers, Regenerated fibers and manmade synthetic fibers as well as blend of these fibers. Fabrics made of natural fibers like cotton and linen are breathe sufficiently to keep wearer comfort. Fabrics made of regenerated fibers like Viscose, also breathe. Fabrics made of synthetic fibers like polyester and nylon can be made breathe artificially. This artificial requires to incorporate moisture management ability to the fabrics by using artificial fabric production technique.

     The sport person or athletes or heavy workmen perspire due to heat generation inside by body movements. This perspiration or sweat containing water vapor molecules of size 3.5 angstrom unit or 2 to 3 micro meter in diameter.To keep person comfort, feel cool and dry, the fabric has to perform below functions efficiently.

1. The perspiration in the form of moist or water vapor particles needs to transport to the outside surface of the fabric through the fabric of the garment. This transport takes place by capillary process ( more finer the yarn more speed of vapor transport ) ie,… wicking OR by pressure/humidity/temperature difference  between inside and outside environment ie.,, moist vapor molecules pushes through interstices (Empty space) between yarn to outside surface. OR by using Hydrophobic or Hydrophilic technique application.

2. Once moist or water vapor molecules comes out and placed on the face of the fabric, then it needs to evaporate. This is achieved by increasing the surface tension by increasing the area of fabric from fine yarn & tight weaving. So that, the vapor gets easily and quickly evaporated.

3. At the same time, the outside air needs to pass into the fabric to keep the person’s body dry. So the fabric should be air permeable.

    From the above 1st and 2nd function person feel COOL. And by 3rd function the person feel DRY. The final performance of fabric will be COMFORT to wear as functional fabric.

    These functionality will be achieved by applying coating to the shell fabric OR by laminating thin micro porous film to the shell fabric OR by incorporating high tech membranes in the shell fabric. The most & popular common chemicals used are PU (Poly Urethane) and ePTFE (Extended Poly Tetra Fluoro Ethylene).

Continued in next post....

Source:Based on educational qualification and experience of the Author/Blogger.

    

GLOBAL COMMERCIAL COTTON FIBERS-A brief note.

GLOBAL COMMERCIAL COTTON FIBERS-A brief note.

Asian cotton,Egyptian cotton,Gija cotton,Pima cotton,Organic cotton ,Bt cotton and BCI

INTRODUCTION: 

To understand the type of cotton,we have to go to about individual biological species of cotton plant.There are important four cotton species.Those are Gossippium Arborium,Gossippium Herbessium,Gossipium Barbadence and Gossipium Hirsutum.All species belongs to the family Malvaceae.

          Only two species,Those are Gossippium Herbessium and Arborium.These two species are growing almost 90% of cotton production in the world.

ASIAN COTTON:

          India and China are the major Asian countries growing these types of species more.Because,these are suitable for these particular climate of Asian counties.

          Asian cotton compared to quality, not as good as Egyptian cotton or Pima cotton or Gija cotton.We have these different types,based on length of the fiber  ,that I'd staple length.We have divided staple length into three.A long staple,that will range around 24mm to 27mm.And medium staple length of 20mm to 24mm.And short staple length below or less than 20mm.These are the three different types of staple length in Asian cotton production.

EGYPTIAN COTTON:

          Egyptian cotton is produced by Gossippium Barbadance.This is a very good quality.The staple length is medium to long,extra long.Quality of the fiber is very good.And fineness and shining are very excellent.Banks of Nile river is the suitable place to produce Egyptian cotton.

GIJA COTTON:

          Gija cotton, It is also known as Egyptian cotton,it is produced nearer to the same region,that is banks of the Nile river.The region provides suitable fertility and climate or specific humidity to growth of Gina cotton plants.Agricultural activities of these cotton plants done in particular time from stages of sowing seeds to the stages of harvesting the crops. Because of that,the cotton length, fineness, luster,etc,.are comparatively slightly higher than Egyptian regular cotton.Among the all cotton,Gija cotton is one of the excellent cotton as of now.

PIMA COTTON:

          Pima cotton, is usually grown in USA. This type of cotton is produced by biological species Gossipium Hirsutum.Pima cotton is also an excellent cotton.We can't able to differentiate the Egyptian cotton and the Pima cotton.Pima cotton is only used for production of subsidiaries.

          Compared to Egyptian cotton, Egyptian cotton is costlier than Pima cotton.Quality wise Egyptian cotton is slightly better.The difference between Pima cotton and Egyptian cotton is only due to difference in the speceis and their adoptability in the particular climatic region.

          The fineness quality of the fiber is very good.It gives comfortness to the body of wearer.And has good moisture absorption,comfortness and also good durability.

ORGANIC COTTON:

           The organic cotton is the non BT cotton method of production.In the organic method of cultivation,fertilisers are not used, chemicals are not used to spray.Only use like neem cake and green leaf manuar for cultivation.Also cowdung, formyard manuar,vermicompost are used to fertile the land.Plant extract chemicals like neem extract will be used to control pest.In such a care,cotton plants are produced organically.This special attention and care will help in supplying good natural  nutirents to cotton plants.The fibers of the organically grown  cotton plants are results with excellent quality.

          Strength(Tenacity)wise, quality wise,definitely organic cotton is good.And production wise approximately 25% of yield is less, compared to non organic cotton productoon.

          The products produced from cotton fibers grown organically are as below.

Spun yarns,

Dyed yarns,

Woven fabrics,

Dyed fabrics,

Finished fabrics,

Stitched garments,

Treated garments,

Industrial applications,

Medical & Surgical applications,

Etc,.

          The individual products made by organic cotton like in the above list,are labelled or enclosed with hangtag saying "This product made of organic cotton".These hang tags or lables are put by products manufacturer or brands only after product is verified & certified by International body for standard for organic cotton.That is GOTS.

          Many global brands are producing variety of cotton products.GOTS certified cottons used,labeled or tagged as organic cotton, itself has more demand and that is green oriented and environmental oriented,compared to regular cotton crops.

Bt COTTON :

          Bt cotton is actually a genetically modified cotton crops.The genetically modified organisms has been introduced in a cotton plant.Bt means Bacillus thurin (Bt).It is a bacteria that has been introduced in a cotton plant to control the bollworms.In cotton crops cultivation,many incidences of 'pest incidence' are occurred.

          Because of bollworms,the expectation of good yield is less.To have control on bookworms,Bt cotton comes into existence.This method involved introduction of biotechnology bacteria into the cotton plant.These bacteria kills the bollworms,when they eats the leaves of the plant or whole of the plant.

          Because of Bt bacteria kills the particular bollworm,the cotton plant is automatically protected from harmful plant deceases.This method will help in avoiding use of chemicals spray or adfitional investments.

          Production wise,the yield will be more,but the quality of Bt cotton fiber are poorer compared to other categories.

BCI (Better Cotton Initiative):

          The better cotton Initiative (BCI) is also an green environmental oriented cotton cultivation programme like organic cotton.BCI is an international council has many members country wise, involved in the production of cotton which promotes farmers and cotton sectors by following it's own principles.This international organisation has been supported and encouraged by global apperal brands and textile industries to the base level of  cotton farmers.  BCI cotton became popular, licensed and tagged brand in demand.

STAPLE LENGTH OF COTTON FIBERS:

          Staple length of fibers varies from species to species.Asian cotton has short fibers of 1.5 cm to 2cms that is also good for producing coarser yarns in turn for heavy weight fabrics as well as blending with other fibers like polyester, nylon,viscose,tencel,etc,.

          Long staple length,what Egyptian cotton fiber staple length or Pima cotton fiber staple length are better in producing fine quality yarn in turn production of light weight.How much length is more that much the produced clothing possess good quality.

          The long staple fibers used in the production of clothing like shirts,tops,T-shirts,etc,.for men's wear,women's wear and kids wear as well as for baby Napkin's and medical applications.

          Staple length of cotton may be classified as below.

Very short staple : Less than 3/4th inch(1.9 and),

Short staple : 13/16th to 15/16th inch (2.06 to 2.38 cm ),

Medium staple : 15/16th to 1,1/8th inches (2.38 to 2.86 cm),

Ordinary long staple : 1,1/8th to 1,3/8th inches (2.86 to 3.5 cm) and

Extra long staple : 1,3/8th inches (3.5 cm) or over.

Source: This article written based on the educational qualification and industrial experience of the author/Blogger.

Reference made:

1.USDA site,

2.GOTS site,

3.BCI site,

4.TEXTILE SCIENCE,Second edition, By E.P.G.Gohl and L.D.V.Vilensky

                                  *****

TENACITY OF COTTON FIBER

TENACITY OF COTTON FIBER

          Physical properties of fibers may be listed as below.

Colour,

Tensile strength,

Elongation at break,

Elastic recovery, 

Specific gravity

Etc,.   

          Tensile strength.The strength properties,why strength is considered as a property ?.Because,what we are wearing the garments/clothing,should have strength,should have durability,should have resistance to tear and wear,should have resistance to other stress and strains.So,the garment or the fabric or the yarn to have strength,the base material fiber should have strength.

          The yarn strength,fiber strength,garment strength,or the durability depends upon fiber strength.Fiber strength is not measured in Tensile.But it is measured in terms of Tenacity.Tenacity is a technical term used to measure the strength of the fiber.

          The unit of measurement of tenacity is grams per denier/tex.Not only cotton,any other fibers tenacity is measured in unit of measurement is grams per denier/tex.Here,the cotton tenacity is 3 to 5 grams per denier.Because of this 3 to 5 grams per denier,fiber tenacity,it gives best durability to the yarn,fabric or garment/clothing strength.

          And other important thing here is to consider the strength factor.If the cotton fiber is in a dried condition,it possessg around 3 to 3.5 grams per denier.But,when it is in the wet condition or when its gets wet,the material may be yarn or fabric or garment,the strength will increase by 20%.

          Because of its morphological construction,cellulose present in cotton fiber is good substance in farming the cotton fiber.It is subjected to changes.If the cotton is in wet condition,wet,means if water particle goes into the fiber structure,the free space in the fiber structure is covered with water particle.That allow the fiber to increase the weight.But some fibers like synthetic fibers will not allow water particle into their structure.Cotton is easily allow,easily wet.

          Cotton products are dyed easily,finished easily.Because it's having the cellulose polymers,are very flexible inside in the amorphous region with 11 to 13 % moisture regain value.

          20% wet strength is more compared to dried fiber.The technical word tensile is not used for the fiber.But totally,when we talk about the textiles,the term tensile is used.And when we talk about material in the fiber form,the term tenacity is used.

Source:Based on educational qualification and experience of the Blogger/Author.

Introduction to Wool Fiber

Wool Fiber

     Wool belongs to protein fiber classification. Its an animal fiber extracted from the skin of Sheep and Goat. Compared to cotton fiber, raw wool fiber is of rough and hard in hand feel and has length of 5 to 6 inches and more depend on the variety of sheep and goat  grown and countries where the wool production taken as their economy generation.

     Wool fibers are of scales on its surface and crimp in character. It makes the fiber allow the air as well as give elasticity and flexibility to comfort with heat retention. It has a good moist absorption quality and not easily catches to fire like cotton fiber.

How wool fiber processed for ready to spun the yarn?

    The wool fibers on the sheep or goat are subjected to many mechanical and chemical processes to make them ready to convert into textile product. Below are the brief explanation given.

Shearing: Is a process of cutting the fleece of wool from the skin of sheep or goat. After extracting the wool hairs, are segregated into wool fleece, broken wool, stained, curled,non-usable,.etc..Wool fleece is the good one to take it for further process. This wool is called greasy wool also.

Scouring: Is the process of cleaning the raw wool which is contained with un wanted atmospheric waste materials, lanolin grease, vegetables, etc. It may be cleaned by detergents at small scale quantities and with special detergents with alkalis at industry for huge quantity. In industry most of the non-removable vegetables contents are subjected to process carbonization.

Types of Wool

    Wool types are classified into many based on the breeds and kinds of animals used, the region where the wool forming is done as well as length and fineness of yield . Below are some important kind of wool have place in the market.

Merino Wool: This kind of wool is now popular for its finest and very soft hand mainly produced in Australia. The merino wool fiber and its production dominating in Australia. The end product from merino wool is mainly have demand in the area of sports culture and yoga culture, where it can be blended with elastane and other fibers combination. This woll measures from 3 to 5 inches in length and 12 to 24 microns in diameter

Cashmere Wool: This is from goats in the northern region of South Asia mainly from present province named as ‘’Kashimir’’.Cashmere wool is a soft,fine and long goat hair strenger than wool taken from sheep.The average diameter around 19 microns .The wool from cashmere goat has double fleece mixed with coarse wool called as guard wool supports the fine wool.The fine cashmere wool is separated from coarse wool by the process called ‘’de-hairing’’and used for textile products manufacturing. The fine cashmere wool is in very demand because of its finer range extended to 30 microns and above. This has been produced in large now in Kashmir (India),Nepal, China and Mongolia.

Mohair: This is from goats of Angora of Turkey region. This is very lustrous, sheen and fine has good warm produce character in cold as well as cool conditioning character in summer. Mohair has 25-45 microns .This may be coarser as the goat old as grown. The fine yarn extracted from younger goat for the application in garments and coarser fibers from aged goats are used for carpet and other house hold application

 Angora Wool: This is from angora rabbits. It is a soft and warmth fiber mainly used in sweaters, suiting and knitted goods of good quality. It is differ from other mohair and cashmere wool. The main country harvest angora is China. The diameter of Angora is between 12 to 16 micro meters. Angora fiber extracted from skin of rabbit, the process by moulting or plucking.

Source:Based educational qualification and experience of the Author/Blogger.

WOOL FIBER - INTRODUCTION,PRODUCTION AND TYPES

WOOL FIBER -  INTRODUCTION,PRODUCTION AND TYPES

INTRODUCTION TO WOOL FIBER:

         Wool fiber is extracted from the hairs of the sheep or goat.This wool fiber is a natural fiber and classified under animal category.This fiber is made of protein.This is called protein fiber.The content of protein fiber is keratin.How the cellulose is there in the cotton fiber like that,Keratin substance present in the wool fiber.

WOOL PRODUCTION COUNTRIES:

          This animal fiber is produced in the major countries like Australia, China,United States and New Zealand.And how the cotton is produced in cotton growing countries as a major contributor to the cotton,like that,these four countries are contributing more in the production of wool fibers.Among the four Australia is number one,China is second, United States is third and New Zealand is fourth in the production of wool.And rest Iran,Sudan,India,Turkey,etc,.are other countries contributes less.

PRODUCTION OF WOOL:

          The global wool fiber production may approximately 2 million tonnes per year.It may go high or it may come down time to time.Average may be 2 million tonnes per year.This is the global wool fiber productions. But when compared to the global textile market,wool production has only 3%.Rest of the global textile production may includes products made of natural fiber,manmade regenerated fibers,manmade synthetic fibers.But only wool took a part of 3% and  this accounts approximately 2 million tonnes per year of global Production.Among total wool production,60% of wool production goes to the production of the apperals.Rest may include other wool applications.This is the brief explanation of the global production.

TYPES OF WOOL:

           The wool types are classified based on the regions of the Globes.The production of the wool,how the cotton grows by the cotton farmers,like that,this wool is produced by rearing of sheep or goat. Those who are farming the sheep,those who are farming the goats for production of wool,they not only rear them for production of wool but some farmers rear for meat productions also.The different wool producers,who is rearing the sheep or goat are of different regions of the globe results for different types of wool.Say, popular wool types are Cashmere wool.Why this Cashmere wool, the term Cashmere has came ?.The name Cashmere comes from the northern part of the India. That is Kashmir near to the Mongolian region .The fibers extracted from the goats grew in Kashmir area.Those fibers are referred as Cashmere wool.

          Mohair is the wool fiber or hair fiber from the Angora goat belongs to the place Angora.Angora wool is also referred for hair fiber from the Angora rabbit.Merino is also a wool fiber.It is produced Australia and Newzealand.These are the different areas of the globe.The main area for highest contribution to the Merino fiber is from Australia.Next is Newzealand.

          Cashmere,Mohair,Angora and Merino are the major types of wool belongs to different parts of the globe.

Note:This article is going to be update time to time and as and when required.

Source:Based on educational qualification and industrial experience of the Author/Blogger.

Cotton Fibers-Growth Production

       Cotton Fibers-Growth  Production

          Cotton is the king and Silk is the queen of textile world .Both are dominating the clothing area of the human essentials though the man-made technology developed to the extent of fulfilling the need of clothing. Cotton maintained its value in the history and continued to gain importance in present and future. History says, cotton was known by the people who lived 5000 years back. People were knew the technology of growing the cotton plant, spinning the yarn and get it woven. As we came to know, cotton dominating countries were India & surrounding countries, Egypt, Australia and American continent. Among these India was the main country producing cotton fiber. Cotton is one of the prime farming of Indian agriculture.

Cotton belongs to biological genus gossypium of Malvaceae family. The fiber is completely composed of cellulose.

Production of Cotton Fiber:

Cotton is cultivated in the Soil which is heavy and in an environment of frost free period and in moderate rain fall. Now a days even cotton plants are cultivating in lands of less rain fall but with getting land irrigated. The plants usually grow to to height of 1 to 2 meters depends on area and environment. It has 3 to 7 lobes with large size leaves give pods or boll containing seeds. These cotton seeds are surrounded by fibers grown from the surface of the seed. The boll of cotton seed is supported by flower makes plant & farm looks very beautiful and indicates the farmer to initiate harvesting.

Harvesting is done both mechanically as well as by hand. Boll picking machines and stripers are used in many developed countries. These machines will picks and separate the pods without damaging the plants .But in some developing countries still the cropping is done by farmer hand. Harvesting taken place only after the flower dried & pods gets open itself to sun shine. For cropping, the pods are in a state of complete dried & fibers gets free to exposed sunlight. The picked pods are taken for ginning process. Cotton covers 2.5 % of the worlds cultivated land.

Ginning & Packing of Cotton Fibers:

Ginning is the mechanical process of separating the fibers from the skin of the seeds. This process requires the fibers on attached to the seed must be free from moist. The machines are developed for greater efficiency and productivity have the mechanism of feeding cotton seeds passing though cylinders mounted with sharp saw and pinned belts. The machines separate the seed and fibers as well as through out the trash include dust particles, husk, leaves etc, whatever comes from the farm along with cotton pods.

                The fibers comes out from the gin machine are packed in compact form called ‘’Bale’’ with specific weight to send it to spinning mills for yarn manufacturing.

Organic Cotton Fibers:

                Organic cotton fibers are not differ from regular cotton fibers. Cotton plants are grown naturally without the use of synthetic fertilizers or pesticides. From sewn of seeds to harvesting of cotton pods involved use of biological cycles only.

Agricultural chemicals used for better yield with better quality. The intention behind to avoid use of fertilizers or any kind of chemicals in cotton cultivation is to protect the environment and soil. To have organic cotton and avoid use of pesticides, system had been developed in global level that regulate and control the process of cotton farming, which will include giving approval and supporting to the farmers to grow organic cotton. Each and every stage the process is monitored and certified by the governing body of organic cotton.

                Sustainable cotton project of the global leaders is helping formers to change their production of conventional cotton to organic cotton by avoiding chemicals and support biological growth. Organic cotton growth found successful in many countries like Turley, India, China, Pakistan, Brazil,  Australia , US and African Countries  mainly Egypt. And global apparel brands like Nike, Wallmart,C&A,H&M,etc have switched to organic cotton.

GOTS is the certificating body of global organic cotton and below is their vision and mission for textile industry.

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[The Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) was developed through collaboration by leading standard setters with the aim of defining requirements that are recognised world-wide and that ensure the organic status of textiles from harvesting of the raw materials through environmentally and socially responsible manufacturing all the way to labelling in order to provide credible assurance to the consumer.

Since its introduction in 2006 the Global Organic Textile Standard has already demonstrated its practical feasibility. Supported by the growth in consumption of organic fibres and by the remarkable demand for unified processing criteria from the industry and retail sector, it has gained universal recognition, enabling processors and manufacturers to supply their organic textiles with one certification accepted in all major markets. With the introduction of the logo and labelling system the GOTS is already visible not only on the shelves of natural textile shops but large-scale retailers and brand dealers as well. This is a milestone in consumer recognition and a strong acknowledgement of our reliable quality assurance concept.(Courtesy : GOTS)]

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Extra Long Staple (ELS)Cottons:

Fiber staple length has been classified into three groups.

1.       Short Staple-Up to 1,1/8inch long

2.       Long Staple-Between 1,1/8 inch to 1,1/4 inch long

3.       Extra Long Staple-Between 1,3/8inch and 2 inch long

Extra-long staple cotton fibers are belongs to biological specie Gossypium barbadense and staple length of 1,3/8 inch to 2 inches even to 2.5 inches .American pima cotton and Egyptian giza are the main Extra-long staple fibers we find easily in mills use. But other Extra-long fibers also developed in many other countries, but the output per hectare is less than pima and Giza. The countries which are successfully producing extra-long fibers are America, Egypt, Australia, Peru,Israil, Central Asian republics of Tadzhikistan, Turkmenistan and Uzbekistan ,China, West Indies and India.

These Extra Long Staple fibers are of very much demand in the production of fine quality fabrics with better hand feel, soft and strength. The application of these long fibers are of importance in meeting new fashion trends ,fittings as well as comfortness when used with other fiber combination.

The Extra Long Staple fibers cultivated in India are SUVIN in parts of Tamilanadu. And Hybrid DCH32 & Hybrid TCHB 213 are among the  10 commercially cultivated fibers finding in Karnataka, Tamilanadu and Madhya Pradesh. SUVIN is the only fiber belongs to the species Gossypium barbadense.

 

Pima Cotton: Pima cotton staple length are better than other fibers grown in US , Australia, Egypt and in other few countries. Originally this ELS fibre grew by Indianpima in south eastern US. Later it grows in other countires.

Giza: Giza Cottons are the long staple fine micro used for super fine light weight fabrics especially top weights. This variety is grown in Egypt closer to Nile river. The climatic condition of this land has good soil, good humidity and average temperature required for continuous growth of lengthy staple fiber.

Source:Based on qualification and knowledge of the blogger.