FABRIC WIDTH and SHRINKAGE
(Part-1)
The knowledge of fabric width is more important for those who handle the fabric either in textile mills or garments stitching industries.
Cause roots for change in fabric width:
Fabric is woven in the loom by interlacement of warp (lengthwise threads) yarns and weft (width wise threads) yarns with the planned weave patterns, that is plain weave, twill weave, satin weave, etc.,. The fabric taken out from the loom is called “Gray" fabric has width equals to reed width of the loom. The yarns placed in this fabric are subjected to tension controlled by warp beam, healds movement and taken off roller.
The width of the finished fabric which is sold does not the same as the loom finished gray fabric. The below are the reasons.
The gray fabric is further taken for dyeing preparatory processes like desizing, scouring, bleaching, mercerisation, etc. The gray fabric is subjected to these treatment processes. In these treatments, the gray fabric gets contracted and yarns get closer, in turn the fabric width gets reduced.
The aboved treated fabric is further taken for dyeing. That is coloring the fabric. This is also a wet treatment process, the fabric subjected to contraction in turn width is still reduced to maximum limit.
After the dyeing process, the fabric is taken for technical finish that is performance finish fabric based on end use applications. Most of these finishes include wet treatments.
The other important factors need to be noted is that, the fabric is subjected to heat, tension and pressure in the above wet treatments.
On the other hand, the fabric width can be fixed or altered by other technical finishes like stentering.
Factors influencing change in width are as below.
Fabric construction type:The contraction of fabric width depends upon the type of weave or interlacement methods. Some fabrics are woven, some fabrics are knitted and some fabrics are non woven.
Fiber content type: The change in the fabric width is varying based on fiber content in the fabric. Example, 100%cotton fabric contracts more than polyester fabric or blended fiber fabric.
Fabric construction level: In space between yarns in woven fabrics and gauges fixed in the knitted fabrics, thickness of the fabric, etc,.
To be continued …
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